Hamish Posted June 19 Report Posted June 19 Les don’t mean to teach you something you already know as you have some amazing machining skills don’t forget to lock the liners down so they don’t move and break the fig 8 seals where they fit to the block. unless you are taking them out anyway of course. +1 for bobs comment on MaXpeeding rods Quote
PriceLes Posted June 19 Author Report Posted June 19 13 minutes ago, Lebro said: Maxspeedingrods conrods are highly rated, & not expensive. Bob I bought a set via EBay around the same time as the ARP head stud kit Bob. I seem to recall your engine thread was one of the first I read. Richard from ORS has already replied to my email and says the annulus shows wear but should be fine. As odd as it sounds, I was kind of hoping he would confirm it could be replaced with a refurbished unit. A very honest company imho. Quote
stuart Posted June 19 Report Posted June 19 (edited) 8 hours ago, PriceLes said: I have decided to replace the wiring loom (Autosparks) and will replace the stock heater box with one from T7 Design (3.5Kw) and still debating John Skinner carpet, door cards and hard top lining. First up this morning from the comfort of the couch was ordering a 'bunch of lathe inserts, I need to make a camshaft bearing installation tool.The engine had new sleeves and pistons (4 ring) which were discarded and new cam and crankshaft bearings which all showed distress so no surprise when I removed the crankshaft plugs to find this. The cam bearings bar one had been installed out of alignment, apparently you just remove the locating pin off the end of the bolt. I have new bearings to fit along with another set of -0.010” rod and main shells, luckily the journals were within 0.0002” at worse so got a light linish only and will polish them later. The engine was said to be built by a professional shop and 500kms since being rebuilt, I can only assume it was lugged at run in and built at home. This will be my first wet sleeve engine rebuild so looking forward to it especially the 0.003”/0.005” sleeve projection procedure. I had already bought a ARP head stud kit and contacted ARP regarding a crankshaft main stud set (possibility) after finding the head studs had the same thread for the block but no reply to date. Thats atrocious to grind the ends off the cam shell bolts! Thats what theyre for to locate the shells so they dont turn! Oh and TR Shop London will supply you with interior parts at a much better price and quality too. Stuart. Edited June 19 by stuart Quote
Chilliman Posted June 19 Report Posted June 19 I've encountered a good number of bodges over the years on the old four pot engines but I've not seen that one before.....classic. Quote
PriceLes Posted June 20 Author Report Posted June 20 I remember the first time I drove in the rain I had to move my head with the wipers and still couldn’t see much. Given the dash is out and access is easy, now is a good time to place an upgrade order with Stafford Vehicle Components. Tube lengths were taken off the original parts and retained the stock wheel box tooth count based off posts on the subject. Quote
PriceLes Posted June 20 Author Report Posted June 20 15 hours ago, Hamish said: Les don’t mean to teach you something you already know as you have some amazing machining skills don’t forget to lock the liners down so they don’t move and break the fig 8 seals where they fit to the block. unless you are taking them out anyway of course. +1 for bobs comment on MaXpeeding rods I appreciate any advice Hamish. The block looks to be in good condition including the seats for the sleeves having no corrosion, I will machine something to hold them when that time arrives. My first choice for sealant would be WellSeal for the figure of eight’s but it is getting harder to find locally and it is now deemed not to be posted via airmail from the UK. It might end up being Permatex and a maybe will be Hylomar aerosol (30M) on the composite head gasket but not the fire rings. Early days yet. Quote
PriceLes Posted June 20 Author Report Posted June 20 14 hours ago, stuart said: Thats atrocious to grind the ends off the cam shell bolts! Thats what theyre for to locate the shells so they dont turn! Oh and TR Shop London will supply you with interior parts at a much better price and quality too. Stuart. I included three new bolts in a Rimmers order Stuart. I have looked at the TR Shop website but it seems to have no prices but will use them in the future either way including the option of phoning them. Quote
james christie Posted June 20 Report Posted June 20 6 hours ago, PriceLes said: I have looked at the TR Shop website but it seems to have no prices but will use them in the future either way including the option of phoning them The TR Shop way of doing business is a total mystery to me. I'm a lucky furriner who speaks fluent English so 'phoning and discussing might be an easy option for me. Not so for those who have less mastery of Shakespeare's language. As the TR Shop is frequently praised by many I much respect, I do look in to their site now and again. However I quickly get discouraged as there are few prices, no basket and it displays promotional material dating from 2020 (!) james Quote
Lebro Posted June 20 Report Posted June 20 TR Shop is always my go to for parts, Phone call is best. Bob Quote
stuart Posted June 20 Report Posted June 20 2 hours ago, james christie said: The TR Shop way of doing business is a total mystery to me. I'm a lucky furriner who speaks fluent English so 'phoning and discussing might be an easy option for me. Not so for those who have less mastery of Shakespeare's language. As the TR Shop is frequently praised by many I much respect, I do look in to their site now and again. However I quickly get discouraged as there are few prices, no basket and it displays promotional material dating from 2020 (!) james TR Shop have never really had much of a website, its just their way and also one of the reasons why they are the best value with often better parts as they dont spend unnecessary money on a web site , a phone call or email has always been the best way to get in touch with them. They will also advise you if your chosen part isnt the best and can often offer you a better alternative, plus they hold huge stocks of good s/hand parts that obviously quite often is a better option. Stuart. Quote
PriceLes Posted June 20 Author Report Posted June 20 To date the best product and company to deal with has been Good Parts in the USA although I see now International orders need to be placed by phone or email. The website will still give all costs to the cent beforehand including shipping. https://www.goodparts.com/ # I contacted T7 Design asking if a 3.5Kw heater unit can be supplied with no ducting outlets, hopefully I will hear back next week. Next week I will start on the chassis which has had the oil slick removed now. Quote
stuart Posted June 20 Report Posted June 20 1 hour ago, PriceLes said: # I contacted T7 Design asking if a 3.5Kw heater unit can be supplied with no ducting outlets, hopefully I will hear back next week. Why no ducts? You need the two for the demisters and the ducted ones work well for the footwells. This is the ones we fit https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html Stuart. Quote
PriceLes Posted June 21 Author Report Posted June 21 The heater must have the original dash functions/knobs and be an improvement. The original on/off should be ok to power a relay for the same purpose and will get a M171 for variable speed control. It will need a custom separate air distributor as an add on hence wanting a unit with blank side panels. Winter temperatures average around 21c in the daytime but have seen as higher as 39.5c in the cabin in the warmer months. Better placed heat proofing (Dynamat) should improve the later, the heater when it is raining mainly for the windscreen. I had used a PWM controller when I built my quill power feed so the heater should be doable hook up wise even though it is not a strong point. If you can’t buy it, make it, if you can’t do either, consider learning how to. Quote
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 21 Report Posted June 21 alternative source for TR4-6 heater units Plus the round unit for TR2/3 https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/heaters/triumph/ Quote
PriceLes Posted June 21 Author Report Posted June 21 I put a heater in the T7 Design basket to check the shipping cost, a little over 1 kg and they want £80.00 for DHL post, no thanks. (The two steering shaft universals (0.785 kg) cost a little over £7 via Royal Mail a few weeks back) Looks like I just saved close to $500 (£237+) not buying a heater so I might as well buy a refurbished annulus off ORS which would make the gearbox and overdrive around 80% new. Quote
Z320 Posted June 21 Report Posted June 21 On 6/20/2026 at 2:46 AM, PriceLes said: I remember the first time I drove in the rain I had to move my head with the wipers and still couldn’t see much. Given the dash is out and access is easy, now is a good time to place an upgrade order with Stafford Vehicle Components. Tube lengths were taken off the original parts and retained the stock wheel box tooth count based off posts on the subject. What about using Rain-X? Quote
RogerH Posted June 21 Report Posted June 21 Hi Les, If you are going to rebuild the wiper system then go for the TR6 14W motor. You will eed to fashion a mount for it but that is easy enough. Keep the same (TR4/4A) wheel boxes. A 90' gear wheel from SCV. You will need a short wiring link from the likes of Moss LINK item #85 If you want to retain your dash switch and knob (switch needs modifying) then I can either supply a modified switch or give you instruction how to. Roger Quote
PriceLes Posted June 24 Author Report Posted June 24 Thanks for the post Roger. I bought the complete kit off SVC, a little bit spendy but should be fit and forget. ( the dash and all under dash components are removed so easy to fit the new wiper boxes, the originals being worst for wear) I did buy the loom plug (only) as I will make my own wiring with a relay for each speed and had enough spare switches to get the needed terminal for the stock push/pull switch modification as per your posts. ( Thanks for putting the information online) Quote
PriceLes Posted June 25 Author Report Posted June 25 Nothing at hand to attach the new terminal so… M4 OD head with a 2.5mm shank 6mm long in copper. The chuck did not close up enough to hold the shank so do it back to front. Spin the end mill, dodgy rivet in the tail stock chuck stationary to reduce and face the head. Rough and ready to crimp.(somehow tomorrow) The steering rack has been started on also with a general check over and replace any basic wear parts. Quote
RogerH Posted June 25 Report Posted June 25 Good heavens Les, you made a rivet for the switch contact. Well done. I used a pop rivet but you need to be careful. Fitting a washer under the tail stops the expanding body (from the mandrel) bursting the Bakeolite switch body. Bakeolite is good but useless at the same time. Roger Quote
PriceLes Posted June 25 Author Report Posted June 25 I will work from the front to rear of the chassis which seems straight and rust free but will remove these bits added in a past live. Eventually it will be painted with KBS products that have been sitting on the shelf for some time along with all the other new parts. Quote
stuart Posted June 25 Report Posted June 25 (edited) 14 minutes ago, PriceLes said: I will work from the front to rear of the chassis which seems straight and rust free but will remove these bits added in a past live. Eventually it will be painted with KBS products that have been sitting on the shelf for some time along with all the other new parts. You do really need to re-enforce those pin mountings in some way though. Usually done with 3mm plates on the top surrounding the pins where they come through the top of the brackets and then boxing of the brackets underneath (Leave the lower corners open for stress relief. Stuart. Edited June 25 by stuart Quote
PriceLes Posted June 25 Author Report Posted June 25 3 hours ago, RogerH said: Good heavens Les, you made a rivet for the switch contact. Well done. Roger It was the easiest option for me over buying something even though a search showed copper rivets by the 1000 online. This homemade one should do the job once crimped. Bakelite is not bad to machine but the modern version does not compare to that of yesteryears. (No surprise in this day and age) Quote
PriceLes Posted June 26 Author Report Posted June 26 Ready to assemble after some checks and re-work to the main casting. Making some form of connection between the casting and split clamp an option. Quote
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