Green Eggs and Ham.

[PriceLes]

Saturday morning and something new.

[PriceLes]

A big thanks to Roger once again for posting the relevant information which included removing the front metal portion and not touching it.

I had various switches (new aftermarket) but needing the extra terminal at position #2. (As the original would have needed) so elected to use the rear portion of one of those with its new plastic flippers and springs attached to the original front portion. The switch is now original 1965 on the dash facia side and new behind. 
The springs ends looked to have one loop on centre which attached at the top on the plastic flipper and the other end looked to be offset, the offset going at the metal lug location. The springs were then both offset outwards from centre. Once one was in place starting with the springs attached to the flippers I used that file shaft in the holes in the flippers and then the springs could be attached to the metal lug and the file removed.

I will call that done for pennies and some time. A new Mini (car) switch from eBay @ $59 could have been bought and the rear portion transferred onto the Triumph front portion ( as posted by Andy) with no modification and minimal time needed. 

Lucas were quite ingenious turning rotary motion (toggle switch) into axial push/pull with the same rear unit. I robbed this on/off toggle switch for the terminals ( over pirating the original Triumph part) 

….. and that’s enough of that.

[RogerH]

Hi Les,

I have come to the conclusion that you are truly truly crackers. 
That is a very nice tool for running the rivet down.
I think Joe Lucas (Prince of Darkness)  would have enjoyed that.

 

Roger

[PriceLes]

Being crackers would help but simply,I still have an adventurous spirit unlike most overs 60’s. Eleven days unemployed (end of another project) and already had another job offer which was declined. Another one for Joe Lucas. 
I elected to use a modern Brembo radial master cylinder on my Mk2A Commando but wanted to retain the original Lucas switch block now over 52 years old, easy enough, machine a new outer clamp that combined the two along with a fluid reservoir and cap that resembled the stock item. The red kill button was broken at the base when I got the bike and a new one was not available.What to do having some spare earlier switch blocks and push buttons which has the same base but different top, easy, machine the top off one and the broken bottom off the other then held together by two modified M2 cap screws. 

Today is an errand to pick up some oil on special (Penrite GB40 at 40% off so $13.79 litre (£7.21) and Penrite SEMI FLUID & STEERING BOX GREASE. 

I think the plan will be to concentrate on the TR chassis at this point with a regimented order of process, the car needs to be back on the road this year but done as choice, not a chore .

[PriceLes]

I was looking for some bits in my ‘store room and noticed the cam wheel set which reminded me of the soft or no hardening post in this thread so it prompted me to side track and have a look. I never got to the file check, the drive wheel has only come out of packaging for a couple of photos and never been dropped in my care. Based on the as delivered flattened tooth it must be soft as cheese but would have needed a decent impact to sustain that damage.

You can see where the metal has bulged being so soft. Disappointing once again and iirc after spending around £1600 over four orders now, every one was botched in some way in hindsight.

 I still hadn’t got around to asking them why the rear seal (MadMarx type) had no tension spring included. 🤔

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

If you are building your engine using stretch bolt con rods from MaxSpeeding you have a good basis for a bolt stretch gauge in your copper rivet squasher.  
I’ll get my coat.

 

[Lebro]

Some people just have too much time on their hands 🙃

Bob

[PriceLes]

It was just a thought, buy another drive sprocket off a company with a good name. I guess not at close to $200. The SR20DET and 5 speed is sounding like a better option by the day.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

3 hours ago, PriceLes said:

It was just a thought, buy another drive sprocket off a company with a good name. I guess not at close to $200. The SR20DET and 5 speed is sounding like a better option by the day.

I fear you may find they all come from the same source.

Latest engine we are putting together we are considering nitriding the sprockets.  Trouble might be they then eat the chain away.

 

can you get high enough octane rice to burn in the SR20DET?

Edited June 29 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Chilliman]

https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/crankshaft-timing-chain-sprocket-tr2-4a-morgan-4/

This is the one I'm going to use. As you say Peter most the main stream suppliers are offering the same tat.

[Z320]

In my opinion the same set of sprockets in an oil bath is good for several chains.

I let mine in in the engine, not sure how good the new set is, and sold the new set again.

The old set works well with a new IWIS chain.

The limit on our chains is not the strech and wear out, it is the limitation of the chain tensior to avoit the chain to lash

Ciao, Marco

[PriceLes]

5 hours ago, Chilliman said:

https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/crankshaft-timing-chain-sprocket-tr2-4a-morgan-4/

This is the one I'm going to use. As you say Peter most the main stream suppliers are offering the same tat.

That is the one I used in the screenshot up the page but covered the Racetorations part. New sprocket from Racetorations is $165.

Rimmers is $145 and very much doubt they will do anything about the damaged one sent based on the arrogant response regarding the corroded 1st gear they sent to go with the $700 lay gear.

I notice now they have updated that gear description when there was not one before and after suggesting they add one.

 

I really have had enough of Rimmers.

[PriceLes]

6 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I fear you may find they all come from the same source.

More than likely Peter, if a NOS Stanpart set was available I would have bought it. Most likely NOS parts in general would have been available even into the 1990’s in the USA. 
I still have to contend with the 89mm liners and composite head gasket ($200) that in hindsight has a fire ring shape that seems to be for a non wet liner block hence compromised sealing to the top of the liner face. The option is to maybe buy another head gasket with round fire rings or machine my own (CNC) from C11000 copper sheet. (The SR20DET is only 8.5 : 1 comp so fine on 98 (93p per litre this week) with stock boost, my 20 years old this year GTI is fine on 98 and similar HP, the combustion chamber would have some input on that perhaps)

Due for walnut blasting of the inlet ports (153k kms) so another of many jobs to do.

[PriceLes]

I can see why many people leave things stock. 🤣 

Edit add on.

i never gave it any thought as the sales description had the gasket on the cylinder head not the sleeve top face. The gasket allows some opening of the combustion chamber to deshroud the valves but the sleeve/bore ID could be a limitation unless it to was modified in that area. If left there would a gap between the sleeve top and cylinder head face in that recess to the fire ring and that can’t be a good thing. I can see more money leaving the wallet.

The sleeve top is around 5 mm wide at the reduced squared off sections so the  fire rind could be round and 5mm wide for a decent seal. I notice Moss have a so called 89mm gasket with round fire rings for close to $300. 

Edited June 30 by PriceLes

[PriceLes]

[PriceLes]

Kas Kastner really was a genius and a legend.

https://speedtour.net/articles/the-legacy-of-kas-kastner/

[Chilliman]

6 hours ago, PriceLes said:

New sprocket from Racetorations is $165.

I see the problem Les, that is a massive postage cost, I've got to do another large order with Racetorations for my own engines, if you like I could order an additional sprocket & send it across for you. Looking at postage costs should be about $100.

[stuart]

8 hours ago, PriceLes said:

I can see why many people leave things stock. 🤣 

Edit add on.

i never gave it any thought as the sales description had the gasket on the cylinder head not the sleeve top face. The gasket allows some opening of the combustion chamber to deshroud the valves but the sleeve/bore ID could be a limitation unless it to was modified in that area. If left there would a gap between the sleeve top and cylinder head face in that recess to the fire ring and that can’t be a good thing. I can see more money leaving the wallet.

The sleeve top is around 5 mm wide at the reduced squared off sections so the  fire rind could be round and 5mm wide for a decent seal. I notice Moss have a so called 89mm gasket with round fire rings for close to $300. 

TR Shop do the same 89mm gasket and I have that on mine with no problem.

Stuart.

[PriceLes]

23 hours ago, stuart said:

TR Shop do the same 89mm gasket and I have that on mine with no problem.

Stuart.

I just got off the phone with Richard and mentioned you had recommended contacting them. ( He thanked you)

I placed an order for the top end gasket set (with a Lucas AE330HDL head gasket?) , a pair of copper figure of eights and a crankshaft sprocket.

[Lebro]

The 89mm "special" head gasket can be problematic if the liners are not in perfect shape, a friend, who has a standard (83mm) TR2 engine fitted one on the assumption that the more expensive gasket must be better. One of his liners had a small chip around the outside edge. After a few hundred miles the water jacket started getting pressurised due to the gasket not covering enough of the liner top edge. Fitted a standard one, & has been good ever since.

Bob

[PriceLes]

On 6/30/2026 at 5:06 PM, Chilliman said:

I see the problem Les, that is a massive postage cost, I've got to do another large order with Racetorations for my own engines, if you like I could order an additional sprocket & send it across for you. Looking at postage costs should be about $100.

Thanks for the kind offer John. I placed an order with the TRShop which includes a new crankshaft sprocket.

#

I stripped the engine around a year ago so forget if the MadMarx type rear seal had a garter/tension spring (surely it must have) at disassembly. The one Rimmers sent does not have that spring but seems odd it would be missing if meant to be there? 

[Chilliman]

4 minutes ago, PriceLes said:

I stripped the engine around a year ago so forget if the MadMarx type rear seal had a garter/tension spring (surely it must have) at disassembly. The one Rimmers sent does not have that spring but seems odd it would be missing if meant to be there? 

All the ones I have bought have had a garter spring with them, however I don't actually fit the springs anymore after one let go on an engine & damaged the rear seal & adjacent crank journal. I discussed the use of the springs with my machine shop & because of how the lip seal is fully contained & compressed in it's new housing decided it wasn't really adding anything in terms of the seal so I now run my engines without. It hasn't made any noticeable difference.

[Lebro]

41 minutes ago, PriceLes said:

 

There's a Triumph tank if ever I saw one

Edited July 1 by Lebro

[Andy Moltu]

On 6/27/2026 at 3:24 AM, PriceLes said:

A big thanks to Roger once again for posting the relevant information which included removing the front metal portion and not touching it.

I had various switches (new aftermarket) but needing the extra terminal at position #2. (As the original would have needed) so elected to use the rear portion of one of those with its new plastic flippers and springs attached to the original front portion. The switch is now original 1965 on the dash facia side and new behind. 
The springs ends looked to have one loop on centre which attached at the top on the plastic flipper and the other end looked to be offset, the offset going at the metal lug location. The springs were then both offset outwards from centre. Once one was in place starting with the springs attached to the flippers I used that file shaft in the holes in the flippers and then the springs could be attached to the metal lug and the file removed.

I will call that done for pennies and some time. A new Mini (car) switch from eBay @ $59 could have been bought and the rear portion transferred onto the Triumph front portion ( as posted by Andy) with no modification and minimal time needed. 

Lucas were quite ingenious turning rotary motion (toggle switch) into axial push/pull with the same rear unit. I robbed this on/off toggle switch for the terminals ( over pirating the original Triumph part) 

….. and that’s enough of that.

I used the back off a Mini headlight switch and the Triumph front. I didn't have to add or remove any terminals as I recall.

I also fitted a Spal fan in place of the original - so more air on full bore.
With hindsight I wouldn't have bothered with installing a motor controller to adjust the slow speed.  Having since rebuilt the heater in the 6 (2 speed from the outset) using an identical Spal fan. The 6 has a resistor to slow the fan down which is bi-passed for full speed. At the same time I replaced the resistor (TR ones aren't cheaply available but the Land Rover ones are and easy to obtain and give a decent slow speed.)  Next time I have the tunnel cover out I might well ditch the motor controller and fit a resistor inside the heater unit (it sits in the airflow, presumably so it doesn't get cooked or contact something it shouldn't)

[PriceLes]

43 minutes ago, Lebro said:

There's a Triumph tank if ever I saw one

It is Bob, a 1957 TR6A (low pipe version)