Green Eggs and Ham.

[Dale Moore]

2 hours ago, PriceLes said:

It is Bob, a 1957 TR6A (low pipe version) 

Nice 👍 

[PriceLes]

[Lebro]

Nice use of bike inner tube !

Bob

[Z320]

Who has one in his workshop is always well prepared!

Edited July 12 by Z320

[PriceLes]

On 7/12/2026 at 5:22 PM, Lebro said:

Nice use of bike inner tube !

Bob

Well spotted Bob.

Catching up on overdue gardening has taken up a lot of time lately but did some more on the tool tonight. Trying to line the oil feed holes up by eye seems like hard work in a confined space so the loose plan is.

The piece in the chuck once bored to suit the smallest diameter of the main body for a sliding fit will get a slot and pin so the ring should slide but not rotate on the main body. A hole in the ring OD to take the stock retaining bolt to lock it in place, another inline with it in the main body to hole the new bearing. In theory the bearing will be able to be pulled in enough to maintain the hole alignment then the ring bolt removed and drawn in the rest of the way. 

My Penrite GB40 oil arrived from Sydney today and will contact ORS this week to order a refurbished annulus for the overdrive. A new wiring loom is in progress (AutoSparks) and hopefully the new two speed wiper motor (full) kit will be in the post from SVC.

T7 Design replied but did not answer the simple yes or no question so might consider making a custom heater blower unit if the factory one is not reused. A SPAL motor is readily available as is a multitude of matrix cores locally. (And not that expensive) Main problem was not so much adding heat ( except in rain) but cabin temperatures which got as high as 39.5 degrees and not wanting to add air conditioning.

Edit.

The wiper kit turned up out of the blue yesterday. SVC were adamant 22T with a 90 degree wheel was the wrong choice, let’s hope they were right given the £312 cost all up. (32T/90 even though an internet search suggested the TR6 has 32T/105)

I threw a three position rotary switch in with the order which will get the stock TR fan switch knob adapted to it.

Edited July 14 by PriceLes
A few updates.

[PriceLes]

Edited Friday at 09:46 AM by PriceLes

[RogerH]

Hi Les,

I have found that the 95 dgegree wheel in the 14W motor and using the original TR4/4A wheel boxes will give you a good sweep on the screen.
The 95 degree wheel will give slightly more and should work well.
Not changing the wheel boxes will save a lot of work.
The speed and torque on the wiper arms is also good.

I thought you modified an original pull switch to make tge 14W work correctly.

Roger

[PriceLes]

Hi Roger, the rotary switch is intended for the heater/blower ( The TR fan knob adapted to it if used)

I did a dodgy at best test based on the 28mm stroke of the motor wheel and 32T box which did verify 90 degrees at the wiper blade. The dash is stripped bare and the 22T wiper boxes were showing their age. (The original TR4A motor wheel stamped 120 had a 26mm stroke) It should be a fit and forget job unless the sweep is not optimal, a new mount to be made for the motor, the AutoSparks loom (£88 post) is on the way according to UPS so that would leave sorting the heater/blower for the under dash along with refurbishing the steering column.

I did receive another work offer yesterday ( submit CV for consideration) said to be three months on a desalination project and only 1600 kms from home.

[PriceLes]

As posted previously, this is what I found on the ‘rebuilt engine so no wonder all of the bearings need to be replaced, luckily the 0.010” crank only needed a quick polish and measured up fine. (0.0002”)

It seems prudent to clean all of the oil galleries given the block has been stripped bare even though the gallery plug/plugs would need to be removed (3/4 UNF) along with the distributor bush as it passes through the gallery to receive oil.

A quick drift to remove the bush (Maybe the manual had dimensions but didn’t look)

Replace it with an as stock UNF plug or take the risk of converting to the likes of NPT thread, it is behind the engine plate so needs to be a perfect seal long term but to physically clean the galley (gun brushes) removal is needed. 

They probably just beat these in at the factory based on the rework it needed so a mandrel made come time to refit the bush. The main body 60mm long and 19.8mm OD to fit into the bore on the block, the spigot 30mm long and 12.63mm OD to hold the bush square to the bore so it drives back in easily. The bush will push the mandrel out at it goes in.

Edited Thursday at 12:17 PM by PriceLes

[PriceLes]

Medical Wednesday, fly to the next project the Monday after.

 
 

 

[Charlie D]

When I left school I had a couple of jobs that required a medical.
I then passed an interview with an American company and I asked where I had to go for the medical.

A rather concerned voice replied:
"Why, what's wrong with you?"

I replied:
"Nothing".

The new boss replied:
"Well you don't need to go for a medical then, do you."

I like that sort of logic.

[PriceLes]

In the past I have done up to three medicals in a year, hopefully done in an hour and a half and head home in the afternoon traffic on a rainy day.

I started on a rubber insulated clamp for the new wiper motor. (32mm plate)

Medical done in a bit over 1-1/2 hours and home.

Edited 4 hours ago by PriceLes