REAR HUB REBUILD.

[Mantaraman]

Apologies if this topic has arisen before but I am a new member of the Register.

The drive shafts from my newly-acquired 1972 TR6 are on the bench at home, priority was replacement of the spline gaiters. I planned to replace the UJ's but have noticed one of the hubs is clearly not running freely. I can't afford to buy new CV type or up-rated shafts and I'm willing to have a go at overhauling the hubs so it would be most helpful if anyone who's already done this could offer advice - or assistance? I live in St Albans but would be happy to bring the shafts anywhere. Does anyone know of a rebuild service?

I have seen recon shafts (hubs, UJ's, gaiters etc) listed on ebay for around £400, has anyone been brave enough to buy? 

Any other low/medium budget suggestions would be welcome.

[trchris]

Hi and welcome you do not want to be stripping the hubs or buying exchange units as there’s a risk of failure of the stub axle I’ve just fitted cv jointed drive shafts from Autodoc ,there’s a post in the 6 forum under “ driveshafts “ , for less than £400 a pair including postage 

Chris

 

[RogerH]

Hi   have you got a name?
There is no easy cheap safe answer to your problem.

You can buy new hubs at apprx £450 a side from  Moss or Bastuk made to the original spec.
Ypu could get your hubs rebuilt BUT you MUST insist on a NEW axle - that is the bit that breaks and can not be easily if at all inspected. Possibly Enginuity in Acton could do it - they have the tools.

Dismantling the hubs without the correct tools can seriously damage various parts within.

The CV modification appears to have less traps but is a few £££ more.

 

Roger

[Andy Moltu]

There's no problem as such with rebuild hubs providing they have been re-built with a new stub axle.

Old stub axles will have suffered multiple stressed over 50+years and the huge forces often required to separate the bearing is often the final straw that results in failure not long after a rebuild.

 

[Schnippel]

Hello,

Caution!!

Even if the shaft is new, it can still be assembled incorrectly. If the key slips backward when fitting the hub... the monster is unleashed. Believe me, that's not an exaggeration!

Best regards, Ralf

[rcreweread]

4 hours ago, trchris said:

Hi and welcome you do not want to be stripping the hubs or buying exchange units as there’s a risk of failure of the stub axle I’ve just fitted cv jointed drive shafts from Autodoc ,there’s a post in the 6 forum under “ driveshafts “ , for less than £400 a pair including postage 

Chris

 

Hi - here is the link to the Autodoc driveshafts which I believe a lot of people have purchased as very good value:

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mapco/23007254

Cheaper than rebuilding your existing arrangement  and almost certainly, much safer

cheers Rich

[stuart]

12 hours ago, rcreweread said:

Hi - here is the link to the Autodoc driveshafts which I believe a lot of people have purchased as very good value:

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mapco/23007254

Cheaper than rebuilding your existing arrangement  and almost certainly, much safer

cheers Rich

How can they do them that cheap?

Stuart.

[jerrytr5]

As previously stated by others, do not attempt to rebuild your hubs. I have kept my 5 on the road using s/h hubs but only from known genuine original Triumph made parts. That source (of crashed/mot failures) is now drying up. However, given the numbers converting to cv shafts & hubs you might find some original useable units available. 

I may have one available myself as I am converting to Goodparts hubs shortly having exhausted my stock of s/h units. PM me if interested.

Jerry

[Mantaraman]

Thanks to all for your responses. I have bought a pair of Autodoc shafts - and I can't understand how they are so cheap. Of course, I can't say anything about their longevity, unlikely to be a problem for me as this is a summer-only, local car.

My next question is how to install them. Bear in mind I'm working on a crawler with the car on stands - but anything is doable. The anchor bolts on the trailing arms are a bit corroded and the bushes look tired so it might be wise to go this route but an alternative and faster solution could be to remove/instal shafts/replace the diff. I have a a number of trolley jacks so could do this safely.

Any recommendations?

[trchris]

Hi if you search the general all model forum for Those drive shafts topic you will find the information you need without me repeating it here , they are pretty much straight forward to fit however you must follow the measurement instructions. If you’re still using lever arm shock absorbers ( you need to remove them makes it easier to fit shafts) l would recommend placing a large washer under the bump stop on the chassis to raise it higher.
Chris