Windscreen frame to body seal problem.

[Malbaby]

History...

I originally ordered the seal from "Rimmers" [yes, I know should have known better back then] a few years ago, and when it came time to fit, found that it was not a good fit, so upon recommendation, I ordered one from USA based "Sports & Classics".

The USA one was a slightly better fit, but I mistakenly cut it a little short.

So back to the Rimmers seal and fitted it to the frame...Very tight fit, not curved correctly at the ends and it curls in at the bottom..see pic...and I cannot start to flatten it by pushing down from the top, or pulling it down via the frame side bolts as the threads are not exposed at the ends of the side mount plates.

Now thinking I should purchase another one that fits better.....Recommendations required for supplier of one that is wider, better shaped and thus fits easier.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[fabrice5925]

Hi

i bought the same seal to RB

at first, i got the same résultat that you 

i used a Gunsun tool to pulling the bottom of the seal and give it the curved shape 

 

Fabrice

 

[trchris]

I had the same problem when refitting the 6 frame l had, seal came from TRGB and had to tease the bottom edge out in places using a plastic trim tool. I think its was because the seal was rolled and stored the actual profile was good. 
Chris

[stuart]

Theyve always been like that and as stated you need a plastic trim tool to tease it out as you pull the screen down onto the forward deck. You do also need one the right length as Ive come across them cut too short already.

Stuart.

[Malbaby]

Thanks guys...Unfortunately I cannot push or pull the frame down at the same time as trying to pull the rubber out via a dedicated tool, as the rubber is curled in too far, and probably not soft enough...Being winter here and an unheated shed does not help either.

Are there any suppliers that have a wider profile seal?

[stuart]

12 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Thanks guys...Unfortunately I cannot push or pull the frame down at the same time as trying to pull the rubber out via a dedicated tool, as the rubber is curled in too far, and probably not soft enough...Being winter here and an unheated shed does not help either.

Are there any suppliers that have a wider profile seal?

They are all the same. If you let the frame up a bit its possible to tease the rubber out a bit and then alternately tighten and tease as you go, its the only way Im afraid, Ive had to do this umpteen times. Small screwdriver bent at right angles and then wrapped in tape is the way.

Stuart.

[mark canaday]

  In the bad old days ,bodymen used a thing called a panel hook. To use it on a rubber seal 

you must first use it to cleanup an old buffer pad.This will smooth it so it is not too harmful 

for the gasket you are working. Loosen all  WS frame bolts,put tape on the finish.

When you are done use some glycerine  to soften the seal it will conform over time. after the bolts are tightened.

MD

[Malbaby]

3 hours ago, mark canaday said:

  In the bad old days ,bodymen used a thing called a panel hook. To use it on a rubber seal 

you must first use it to cleanup an old buffer pad.This will smooth it so it is not too harmful 

for the gasket you are working. Loosen all  WS frame bolts,put tape on the finish.

When you are done use some glycerine  to soften the seal it will conform over time. after the bolts are tightened.

MD

Thanks Mark, but at the moment I cannot get a nut onto the threads to pull it down...Cannot push it down to get the nuts started either.

[stuart]

12 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Thanks Mark, but at the moment I cannot get a nut onto the threads to pull it down...Cannot push it down to get the nuts started either.

Get some longer bolts to go down through the three middle brackets without the plates  but with a big washer and just do them up till they contact the frame and then very slightly tighten them (Not much as theyre flimsy) then you should be able to pivot the frame down enough to just catch a nut on each. I take it the two tube bolts are still original length and not been broken off or shortened in any way?

Stuart.

[Malbaby]

Thanks again guys for your assistance.....[Frame bolts original].... I managed to get one side nut started, and then had to use a long clamp from the engine bay to the top of the frame to start the nut on the other side... Found that trying to pull out the seal lip that was tucked under very difficult....[questionable quality and especially the profile of the Rimmer's seal]

I have now given up and ordered a new seal from The Roadster Factory in USA...I had purchased one from them about five years ago and it fitted comparatively easily on my TR4.

Edited Wednesday at 10:52 PM by Malbaby