Richard71 Posted June 10 Report Posted June 10 Hi All, I'm having some trouble with my clutch. Having neglected to change the fluid in many years, I decided to perform the task this morning. I'm confident I have removed all the air using a hand operated vacuum pump, but I simply cannot engage gear, horrible grinding noise whenever I make any attempt. Am I overlooking something obvious? Richard. Quote
Steve 286 Posted June 10 Report Posted June 10 Hi Richard did you have the same problem before you changed the fluid Quote
RogerH Posted June 10 Report Posted June 10 Hi Richard I tried to bleed a TR6 clutch at Le Mans many moons ago. I couldn't get the air out of it as the pipework was so bent and twisted. I ended up with master cylinder and pipework removed and then I could turn and twist the pipe to get the air out. It took ages AND - somebody else got the thanks - not me Roger Quote
Richard71 Posted June 10 Author Report Posted June 10 36 minutes ago, Steve 286 said: Hi Richard did you have the same problem before you changed the fluid No Steve, the clutch was perfect, wish I left as is now! 24 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Richard I tried to bleed a TR6 clutch at Le Mans many moons ago. I couldn't get the air out of it as the pipework was so bent and twisted. I ended up with master cylinder and pipework removed and then I could turn and twist the pipe to get the air out. It took ages AND - somebody else got the thanks - not me Roger Thanks Roger, I'm persevering but things seem to be getting worse, with no resistance felt at the pedal at all now. Quote
Z320 Posted June 10 Report Posted June 10 Hi, the Girling masters are pretty simple, but the Triumph guys fitted them wrong, most wrong on the LHD TR6, not supporting the bleeding at all. I consider to fit bleeding screws on top the next time I got them out. Ciao, Marco Quote
Richard71 Posted June 10 Author Report Posted June 10 I've removed & stripped down both the master & slave cylinders. See attached photos, I'm no expert on these, but the seals & pistons appear to be in good condition but the bore of the slave cylinder shows signs of water damage, no ridges. When I removed the slave cylinder, there was a small amount of fluid gathered behind the dust cap, is that normal? The bore of the MC is spotless. Any opinions welcome. Richard. Quote
stuart Posted June 11 Report Posted June 11 16 hours ago, Richard71 said: I've removed & stripped down both the master & slave cylinders. See attached photos, I'm no expert on these, but the seals & pistons appear to be in good condition but the bore of the slave cylinder shows signs of water damage, no ridges. When I removed the slave cylinder, there was a small amount of fluid gathered behind the dust cap, is that normal? The bore of the MC is spotless. Any opinions welcome. Richard. That slave is scrap Im afraid, any fluid outside the bore shows it, that`ll be why you cant get a good pedal. Stuart. Quote
Richard71 Posted June 11 Author Report Posted June 11 5 minutes ago, stuart said: That slave is scrap Im afraid, any fluid outside the bore shows it, that`ll be why you cant get a good pedal. Stuart. Replacement arriving from TR Shop this afternoon. 👍. Quote
john.r.davies Posted June 11 Report Posted June 11 Is bleeding the TR6 clutch slave a difficult job? It is on my Vitesse, especially with the engine shifted back an inch, as the slave is at about 9 o'clock (from the front) on the bell housing, and behind the edge of the arch in the bulkhead, so that access is cramped and difficult. I have a Brown Bible, and see the TR6 slave is behind the oil filter on the other side of the bell, with the bleed valve possible obscured by the filter. Can you reach it from above? I ask, because I can offer away to make bleeding easy - a remote bleed valve. I attached a length of 'Aeroquip', flexible braided hose to the slave instead of the bleed valve, with a valve on the other end, mounted on a bracket on the bulkhead. Access could not be easier! The flexible hose isn't essential, but caters for vibration and eases installation. I can't claim this is an original idea. I have a project car that uses a Renault UN1 transaxle, whose slave is at six o'clock on the bell, right at the bottom! It has a remote bleed valve at twelve o'clock! John Quote
Steve-B Posted June 11 Report Posted June 11 John, I’m no mechanic genius but I found using an Ezibleed on my TR6 when I replaced the clutch master cylinder & slave easy-as to do. Probably took me longer to get ready/setup than the bleeding took. Quote
Z320 Posted July 5 Report Posted July 5 (edited) On 6/10/2026 at 7:07 PM, Z320 said: Hi, the Girling masters are pretty simple, but the Triumph guys fitted them wrong, most wrong on the LHD TR6, not supporting the bleeding at all. I consider to fit bleeding screws on top the next time I got them out. Ciao, Marco Hi, I had some time to play and fitted a M4 bleeding screw on on my TR4A clutch master. It is only drilled d=1.5 mm axial up to the head and half cross under the head. So I expected to have to pump the air out - not at all, the air went out at once, also nearly all of it This could specially solve LDH TR6 bleeding problems. I had only the clutch master out and to get the clutch proper work there was no need for the common bleeding of the hole system Just an idea, Ciao, Marco Edited July 12 by Z320 Quote
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