This weekend I will mostly be replacing my hood…

[GreatOldOne]

Tips welcome. I’ve watched Steve’s video, and now this one from the Doc:

And I think I’m ready. I think. 🤞

I’ll try and keep you posted on progress. 

[Steve-B]

The temperature is certainly right to have the car in the sun and let the new hood soften first!

Good luck, let us know how you get on!

[GreatOldOne]

Sit rep. 
 

old roof off, frame out ready for a seeing to with the wire brush and some paint

[GreatOldOne]

Ready to paint

[stuart]

42 minutes ago, GreatOldOne said:

Ready to paint

Didnt your new hood come with that rear bar? All the ones I buy do. Hope youve bought new webbing too.

Stuart.

Edited June 20 by stuart

[wheeler]

Good soft top fitting information here 

TR6+Soft+Top+Installation.pdf https://share.google/Slnjq1lew2FV8DJF0

Hope this helps

Bill

[GreatOldOne]

Professional grade paint booth… 

[GreatOldOne]

2 hours ago, stuart said:

Didnt your new hood come with that rear bar? All the ones I buy do. Hope youve bought new webbing too.

Stuart.

No, my new hood didn’t have a bar, and yes I’ve got new webbing and all the fixings for them

[stuart]

5 minutes ago, GreatOldOne said:

No, my new hood didn’t have a bar, and yes I’ve got new webbing and all the fixings for them

Have you got the tool and the fixings for the rear bar then?

Stuart.

[CK's TR6]

I often see hoods that the three snaps behind the doors are super tight. To the point that the one right next to the door pulls out. Hard to do a good repair on.  The hood wraps around the aft bar on the inside and snaps. If that bar exerts the tension on the top section of the hood (by transferring that tension to the web) then the tension on the sides of the hood can be lessened to prevent the pulling on the snaps.  That means getting the new webbing not only taught but getting the bars in the right place.  BTW, the webbing will probably stretch a little.

[GreatOldOne]

frame is back in, webbing done after remembering how to sew… no pre sewen loops in the set I got. On to the Velcro now

[GreatOldOne]

More progress this weekend, I’ve gotten the side seals in and started to get the hood on… but I’ve stopped for now as I’m waiting on the Amazon man to deliver the black snaps I ordered - and to ask some advice.

I’ve gotten the drivers side seals pretty well spot on, with them sitting against the glass when the window is up. But try as I might I can’t do the same for the passenger side. The channels the seals are in are positioned as far out as they can go / the slots in the frame will allow, but there’s a gap. It’s as if the window is at the wrong angle, and needs to lean in toward the cockpit more. The hood frame looks fine and engages and latches on both sides, so I don’t think it’s twisted or bent.

So before I start taking door cards off to poke around… is there an adjustment that changes that particular angle of the window? 
 

Ta,

Jason.

[michaeldavis39]

To adjust angle of window inwards you will need to remove door card and then either remove a washer between door and window channel at the bottom of channel or add a washer at the top of channel.

[PodOne]

Or you could try packing the channels out with washers before removing the door cards. Also from memory I had to mess with the frame with spacers in one or too spots the get the seals right. The hardest bit to seal is the top corner of the frame. 

I think I also binned the Rimmers offerings and used some TR Shop.

Andy

[GreatOldOne]

Thanks both. 👍

[stuart]

To get the windows to lean in more you would need to space out the bottom brackets of the window slides, not as easy as it sounds as the slides are also bolted in two other places further up, those top holes do have a bit of wriggle room hence the larger washers fitted so you may get enough movement like that but what you may then find is youd need to renew the top outer rubber seal along the glass as the old one may well have a "Set" on it and it will stand proud of the glass. Or you could do what Ive had to do on a few which is elongate the holes in the hood frame where the ally channel sits so it will sit further out to allow the rubber to contact the glass, I have even on one occasion had to grind a flat on the nuts so they sit right up tight against the outer edge of the frame channel. Also some of the supplied sealing rubbers arent quite the right shape to curl out far enough either.

Stuart.

 

[GreatOldOne]

I think I’ve sorted it out. I’ve elongated the holes in the frame as per Stuart’s suggestion with a carbide burr in my dremel, and got the channels to sit pretty much flush with the outer edge of the hood frame. That and some massaging of the frame itself (as per the chap at the TR Shop suggested when I phoned them about new thicker rubber seals) I’ve gotten the seals against both door’s windows.

+1 to the at TR shop. They could have sold me something, but they told me it would be the same as what I had and just gave some free advice. 👍

[stuart]

14 hours ago, GreatOldOne said:

+1 to the at TR shop. They could have sold me something, but they told me it would be the same as what I had and just gave some free advice. 👍

Exactly why I use and recommend them.

Stuart.

[GreatOldOne]

So much for getting it done in one weekend, eh? The end is in sight though 😎

 

 

Edited July 4 by GreatOldOne

[GreatOldOne]

Finally done.

now to collapse in a big sweaty heap. 🤪

Edited July 4 by GreatOldOne

[Kevo_6]

You’ve done a great job there, well earned beer I should think.

[GreatOldOne]

I’ve gotten the boot / roof cover done now too. There’s nothing online regarding fitting these (or if there is I couldn’t find it) so I winged it. 
 

poppers where a right bugger. There’s so many layers around the perimeter that’s it difficult to crimp them properly even with the right tool. And I’m not sure if I’ve gotten them in the right locations to get the correct shape. I also thing I may need to replace some of the plastic snap posts as they’re a little worn and some times don’t hold.