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Posted

Hi Folks

as the title suggests one is having a little trouble removing the large bolt that runs through the TRunnion.

Last time it was assembled I used the SuperPro bushes, the stainless sleeves and copious lumps of grease.

Sadly after a few years things are quite stuck.

I usually attack the suspension every two or three years somehow time has slipped by me. It was last sorted before covid - apprx 2017.

So what magic have people cast in order to get the bolt out of the TRunnion.

Roger

Posted

Air hammer.  I have a 4X if you want to borrow it.

Get someone to support the other side of the wishbones while giving the bolt some air hammer wellie.  Fit the nut to protect the threads

If that doesnt work off with the wishbones and try on the flypress.

Posted

Hi folks

the TRunnion turned out to be a right little devil.

The S/S SuperPro S/S sleeves were seriously welded to the bolt and somebody put SuperGlue on the bolt to TRunnion hole.
It was solid.   The Vertical Link was stuck in the TRunnion. I could rotate the VL apprx 20' each way and no more.

So, I purchased a used OEM TRunion that had an excellent fit on a used VL plus a new bolt and Superflex bushes and S/S sleeves

Later in te day (today) I managed to get the VL off the TRunnion by cutting the trunnion in half.   The VL threads were coated in a black dry substance that needed serious wire brush cleaning.  Once clean I could see that the plain portion of the thread shank was corroded - no bad pitting but and even coat of deepish rust.
Worse still the threads had been partially eaten away.   

So what went wrong  Just before Covid the left lower wishbone attachment stud failed and resulted in a bent VL. A new VL was fitted and the assembly worked very nicely. But I did nothing to the off side suspension with regard servicing.  Roll on another 6 years and the OffSide has not been serviced properly for 10+ years.

The grease solidified, the steel started to rust and in general it became a dogs breakfast.

Tomorrow I shall get a replacement VL and re-assemble the suspension.

Question - what is the best grease to put the TRunnion

Aren't cars fun.

 

Roger

Posted (edited)

I’ve been using Penrite semi fluid steering box grease. Seems to work well. The assembly looks well lubricated when stripped and there’s no discernible wear…..although I’ve only been using it for a few years.

I previously used Castrol LM and gave the trunnions a squirt every time I was working on the car. Maybe once a month. 

Edited by Drewmotty
Posted

I use LM grease also, no fixed routine, but whenever I have the front raised for any reason. Probably 2-3 times a year, pump in till it oozes out of the top.

Bob

Posted

I have been a user of EP140 for some time.  As stated.  Pump in until it oozes out.   I silver soldered the steel caps in the bottom of the trunnions when I put the suspension on back in 2004.   That stops the oil leaking out or worse still the cap popping out when the grease/oil pressure gun is applied.

Sounds like you need a planned maintenance procedure Roger.

Posted

I use Castrol worm gear oil on the trunnions and grease all other joints. When I fitted the kit I purchased from Rimmers (I think) a number of years ago, I fitted grease nipples to the upper and lower inner wishbone joints.. The kit was made up of nylon bushes that pressed into the wishbones and the inner diam is the reamed to size. Bugger of a job, have you ever tried to ream nylon? Also, unless your suspension is in good condition (no bends), it will not fit together. There is no play to take up any misalignment. Fortunately mine was good and all fitted nicely. Just as well because you will not find out until you finish the job that the top ball joint will not line up with the upper wishbone.

What it did was take up, was all the play and the steering and became much more sensitive and direct. Also, a squirt of grease as part of the annual service keep it all moving and quiet.

Brian

Posted
7 hours ago, TR NIALL said:

Solder the end of the Trunnion or your Oil or whatever you use will leak out.

On the ones I bought there was no need to solder, they are not leaking.

My rule: better use oil, if it leaks out use grease

Posted
8 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I have been a user of EP140 for some time.  As stated.  Pump in until it oozes out.   I silver soldered the steel caps in the bottom of the trunnions when I put the suspension on back in 2004.   That stops the oil leaking out or worse still the cap popping out when the grease/oil pressure gun is applied.

Sounds like you need a planned maintenance procedure Roger.

+1 for EP140.  The trunnions were new back in 2020 and did not need soldering and have never leaked. I always pump oil in till it oozes out so I know the trunnion is full  and do it every year during my spring check around.

Ralph

Posted (edited)

When I introduced some castor into my 3a suspension I sealed the bottom of the trunnions with solder. So I had grease / oil options in the future but I have only used lm grease liberally pumped until the clean grease squidges out and whilst I haven had them apart in the 6 years it seems to be ok.

note the groove up the thread in the trunnion that is supposed to distribute the lubricant of choice 

oh yeah - it’s not the separate bolt type trunnion

IMG_0626.jpeg

IMG_0627.jpeg

IMG_0628.jpeg

IMG_0629.jpeg

Edited by Hamish
Posted
10 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

I’ve been using Penrite semi fluid steering box grease.

+1

I have a small grease gun filled with the stuff and use it just for the trunions and the steering box on my 3A

Posted

It should be noted that Roger does many time more miles in his TR than most of us.

Bob

Posted

I was going to buy Penrite semi fluid grease for the rack and pinion and see it is also OK for the trunnions but found this in a search and happen to have pot on the shelf?

IMG_2674.thumb.jpeg.15e439debeffef108ec82485d1ad6a8e.jpeg
IMG_2675.png.8f2bd860a2ec78a88f0e94dcbac2b1a1.png

Posted

This comes highly recommended for VL greasing Quicksilver lube

Stuart.

Posted

OK, this is where everyone tells me I am an idiot and I am driving around in a ticking time bomb.

About forty five years ago when my 3 was being used as a semi daily driver and also used for Hillclimbs I rebuilt the front suspension, with some modifications. New trunnions were machined to accept the later bolt and bush assembly, with a phosphor bronze bush in the trunnion, I also fitted top wishbones from the later assembly with bushing and later top ball joints. Rather than grease or oil I thought I would try Copperslip in the trunnion as the grease in the old trunnion was pretty much solid, as it also was as I discovered when I stripped down the suspension in my 6 which I owned concurrently with the 3. The front suspension was stripped and checked annually for the first ten years or so, then slipped back to longer intervals, with continued use of Copperslip. Last year I did another complete rebuild with new Poly bushes and top ball joints, the trunnions and threads on the vertical links were pretty much as they were forty five years ago. The bolt through the trunnion taps out easily and the trunnions spin off the vertical links without any problems. I have a Revington cover plate for the steering box and even with 6" rims and 195 tyres the steering is fine, and to my mind not in the least heavy when compared to other sidescreen cars which I have driven on skinn wheels and tyres.

I look forward to comments.

Cliff

Posted
5 minutes ago, Ecosse said:

OK, this is where everyone tells me I am an idiot and I am driving around in a ticking time bomb.

About forty five years ago when my 3 was being used as a semi daily driver and also used for Hillclimbs I rebuilt the front suspension, with some modifications. New trunnions were machined to accept the later bolt and bush assembly, with a phosphor bronze bush in the trunnion, I also fitted top wishbones from the later assembly with bushing and later top ball joints. Rather than grease or oil I thought I would try Copperslip in the trunnion as the grease in the old trunnion was pretty much solid, as it also was as I discovered when I stripped down the suspension in my 6 which I owned concurrently with the 3. The front suspension was stripped and checked annually for the first ten years or so, then slipped back to longer intervals, with continued use of Copperslip. Last year I did another complete rebuild with new Poly bushes and top ball joints, the trunnions and threads on the vertical links were pretty much as they were forty five years ago. The bolt through the trunnion taps out easily and the trunnions spin off the vertical links without any problems. I have a Revington cover plate for the steering box and even with 6" rims and 195 tyres the steering is fine, and to my mind not in the least heavy when compared to other sidescreen cars which I have driven on skinn wheels and tyres.

I look forward to comments.

Cliff

Ive not use Copperslip in trunnions but certainly every where else on the bushes and yes everything comes apart years down the line without a problem.

Stuart.

Posted

A couple of years ago we got asked if anyone would be interested in ordering a set of Trunnions Less conversions like used on the smaller chassis Triumphs I understand that a good few people said yes then all has gone quiet have we any updates on this?

Keith

Posted

Hi Folks,

 many many thnaks for all your replies.

For lubrication  will make a cocktail of Castrol LM, CV-2, Silverline, 140EP oil - I defy it to seize again.
Seriously I now have to choose froma large selection.  It will be a grease. I am tempted by the Copperslip

The CV-2 does look interesting.

I picked up a nice used VL this morning from the TRShop along with a new top ball joint.

 

Roger

Posted

Following this thread, & having some spare time, I jacked up the front, & greased the outer wishbone ends (no problem), the offside trunnion (no problem) tried to grease the nearside, & although I had soft soldered the base to the body, it sprung a leak, & most of my applied grease shot out sideways. Some did make it through to the top, but I think before the Malvern trip I will take that side apart, & re-solder the base.

Bob

Posted
8 hours ago, PriceLes said:

I was going to buy Penrite semi fluid grease for the rack and pinion and see it is also OK for the trunnions but found this in a search and happen to have pot on the shelf?

IMG_2674.thumb.jpeg.15e439debeffef108ec82485d1ad6a8e.jpeg
IMG_2675.png.8f2bd860a2ec78a88f0e94dcbac2b1a1.png

That’s a proper google AI summary 

Posted

According to the label CV-2 contains "Red Moly".
I'm sure I heard somewhere that that was the preferred choice for riders of the 1952 Vincent Black Lightening.
Been around for a while then.

Posted

I wonder if a marine engine eg stern gland or outboard motor grease would be good. Certainly designed to cope with wet salty environments 

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