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Posted

Is this then a work-around fix for our chassis' that suffer a little sagging when or a ramp or jack etc? Can it be considered a further strengthening mod? Or are there -ve consequences?

Richard.ย 

Posted
42 minutes ago, Richard71 said:

Is this then a work-around fix for our chassis' that suffer a little sagging when or a ramp or jack etc? Can it be considered a further strengthening mod? Or are there -ve consequences?

Richard.ย 

My thought is that it is a simple mod that can't hurt (unless you screw up the welding and blow through the frame rails) and seems to stiffen the chassis measurably. I just put my car back up on the lift to POR15 the brackets and the door gaps do still shift a little, but to my eyes less than without the braces. The doors open and close without slamming when on the lift.

Should you do it? That's up to you. I don't know if RATCO wants to sell the braces as a stock item or whether they just cut them for me as a one-off. You can always call them and ask, they are nice guys.

Posted (edited)
On 7/4/2026 at 5:05 AM, Richard71 said:

Is this then a work-around fix for our chassis' that suffer a little sagging when or a ramp or jack etc? Can it be considered a further strengthening mod? Or are there -ve consequences?

Richard.ย 

IMHO, the mentioned braces are not a fix for "sagging" rear, and will have little impact....I found that strengthening the area at the rear of the sandwich plates had the most beneficial effect on the sagging problem, but also found that part of the chassis stress was then transferred [-ve consequence] to the area mid doors....Poor factory welding techniques also compound the problem.

Bottom line....These ageing chassis require a lot of work to minimise the sag and twist....Some of which can be done with the body on, but ideally with body off....The Ratco chassis although a lot of money, is well worth considering if one is performing a high end restoration....What's another $6-7k in the overall scheme of things.๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜...You can spend countless hours and heaps of money on a restoration only to find that the door top gaps open when you lift the car.๐Ÿ˜ข

Edited by Malbaby
Posted
27 minutes ago, Malbaby said:

What's another $6-7k in the overall scheme of thingsย ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

ย 

Hell, that's a bargain! I spent almost that much on just the Racetorations billet forged crankshaft I just ordered for my build.

Posted
On 7/3/2026 at 7:51 PM, stuart said:

very beefy indeed, like this one

I think I recognise a Chassiscraft chassis there. One big advantage that has is that all the sections are RHS, not box sections with welded flanges. Much stiffer in torsion, and somewhat in bending as well. The door gaps barely change when it's jacked up.

JC

Posted
2 minutes ago, JohnC said:

I think I recognise a Chassiscraft chassis there. One big advantage that has is that all the sections are RHS, not box sections with welded flanges. Much stiffer in torsion, and somewhat in bending as well. The door gaps barely change when it's jacked up.

JC

Yes they are really good though a bit heavier than a standard one.

Stuart.

Posted
Just now, stuart said:

Yes they are really good though a bit heavier than a standard one.

Even more so if you have one that was hot-dip galvanised. But the amount of weight I have gained over the years is probably even worse!

JC

Posted
Just now, JohnC said:

Even more so if you have one that was hot-dip galvanised. But the amount of weight I have gained over the years is probably even worse!

JC

๐Ÿ˜„๐Ÿ˜„๐Ÿ˜„ย Know that feeling, hence the need for more horsepowerย ๐Ÿ˜‰

Stuart.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, JohnC said:

Even more so if you have one that was hot-dip galvanised. But the amount of weight I have gained over the years is probably even worse!

JC

Try Mounjaro - todayโ€™s medical equivalent of Colin Chapman ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿ˜œย 

Edited by Steve-B
Posted

I prefer Stuart's solution :D

JC

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