This Cat is still in the bag……..

[Tony_C]

I only went along on the strict basis that I would- and no harm in - only kick the tyres… I’ve never particularly hankered after one of these and certainly not on my ‘bucket list’ so to say.

Story was, a nice old guy had owned it for 40+ years but left it in his (huge) garage for the past 20….. I expected to see a rusty basket case. However, I was quietly astounded to find one of the most unmolested and genuine cars I have ever seen! …. What to do now? I’m thinking a cheeky- but not too cheeky- offer?!

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Nice.  
The get away car of choice.

I wouldn’t duck if you threw the keys at me.

[BRENDA1]

[trchris]

As long as the underside is sound why not ? l would have thought as a non runner so to speak, single figure thousands 

Chris

[Tony_C]

Thanks Chaps. Yep Peter, all original keys and the doors and boot lock 👌. .. 

Chris, I did run a magnet over the bodywork and bits underneath, it’s got substantial under sealing  - don’t know if that would be from new? - and definitely no holes or obvious signs of rot. 
 

He said that he used to run it up to temperature and take it on the drive once a year. However, the last time was more than 18 months ago from a gallon can still jury rigged in the boot; we decided against trying it yesterday although all the fluids looked good albeit with very obvious signs of a leak from the diff! - which looked to me (with my rose tinted goggles on 🤔😎) to be coming from the loose filler nut?……. By kind copy to Stuart, BFG and all you other knowledgeable folks can you see anything I missed from the photo?

Further the above, anything else to watch out for?… I’ve heard they don’t like sitting in the heat (none of my old cars have been different..)

 

[Harbottle]

Tony,had one, loved it,only sold after many years because of space. If it looks sound then, scratch that itch.

[John Morrison]

For gowds sake don’t miss it

John

 

[stuart]

Probably had about 15 of them back in the day in various conditions and engine sizes though always kept a white 3.8 for personal use.

What size engine is it? Is it manual or auto? Pretty much all the manuals had overdrive though Police models didnt. 

Areas to check are, starting at the front the cross member behind the front bumper that has the front mountings for the front subframe and its associated "Crows feet" sections that sit behind the bottom of the front wings, moving back the front wheel arches and the associated splash panel behind them. Then the sills and the small drop section at the outer edge of the floor that goes to meet the sill. Bottoms of all four doors. Rear wheel arches and their associated spats. Going underneath the rear spring boxes do suffer badly with corrosion. The Panhard rod bracket in the right hand rear arch has a habit of breaking away too. Petrol tanks suffer as they are out in the wet right at the back left next to the silencers.

Under bonnet obviously check for water and petrol hose condition. Engine noise i.e. tappets or deeper rumbling from bottom end. oil pressure should be at least 40psi running when hot and not dropping below 20/25psi at tickover after a good run. if its a 3.8 then it has a LSD listen for any groaning noises if its had the wrong oil in it, wont really hurt them and a change to the right LSD oil cures it. When driving with the LSD remember to drive it into the bends as they will try to push you straight on. Depending on year it will probably have the non synchro first gear Moss box, nothing wrong with that as theyre good boxes and its easy double clutch to get into first if required. Just be careful as first and reverse are very close and it easy to mistake one for the other if the detent is worn.

Interior check rear window area of the headlining as the rear window seal tended to leak and the headlining material is lipped round the aperture before fitting the window sea so they can wick water round. Look behind the back seat for corrosion where the tramp bars are welded to the rear back panel and also look at the pans under the rear seat as water leaks from rear window can cause rot there.

Check door cards for integrity as they do suffer water damage. If its been sat for a long time then get some food int the leather or it will start to crack. Have a good look at the door top wood finishers for varnish damage and check the dash top veneer for sun/water damage.

Obviously check all outer panels for any rust bubbles, boot lid lower section is a favourite.

Brakes are possibly original Dunlop calipers that also dont like sitting though easy to dismantle and can be re-sleeved with stainless by likes of Past parts. Servo should work well though check the tank in the front right hand wheel arch for corrosion. You`ll soon tell as the pedal will be rock hard! Clutch (If its manual) is pretty much as hard as a TR one and should bite about half way up, be wary if its right at the top as that would indicate its worn out and its engine out to change.

Check the wires for integrity with a toffee hammer tap to the spokes, ding is good donk isnt. Look at the chrome work as its very expensive to get it redone these days.

Theyre fun to drive and a well tuned manual 3.8 will shift, We used to fit extra blocks under the front anti roll bar and Spax adjustables all round wound up fairly hard to eliminate a lot of the body roll so they would corner flat.

Values are all over the place now so Im not sure what would be a good price without some better pictures.

Stuart.

[Tony_C]

Thanks Stuart, this is terrific advice and very much appreciated. 3.8 but auto, 80k miles.

Remarkably rust free, I did check many of the areas you mentioned but will go back again with fuller knowledge.

He did mention that he had had the callipers "replaced and done in stainless " when they had previously stuck… Now (I think) I know what he meant

i’m resigned to not getting all the chrome back to 100%, it is dulled and pitted in places. However, I did spend a minute with a spray of wd40 and rag on one of the worst looking areas which cleared 99%. - It actually comes with a few new spares including the large centre boot rear number plate light housing etc…. But my initial thought was that a few new really shiny bits will just detract from the original patina?!

Just for info and interest, he’s an 82 year old retired farmer and his modus-operandi has always been to have substantial 4x4 to run around in with another favourite’ in the garage just for special occasions, currently it’s a Porsche Cayenne SUV specked exactly how he likes it whatever the cost and logic.. Previously, back a while it was the mk2 but the one he clearly loved was a big barge of a mk9

[stuart]

14 hours ago, Tony_C said:

Thanks Stuart, this is terrific advice and very much appreciated. 3.8 but auto, 80k miles.

Remarkably rust free, I did check many of the areas you mentioned but will go back again with fuller knowledge.

He did mention that he had had the callipers "replaced and done in stainless " when they had previously stuck… Now (I think) I know what he meant

i’m resigned to not getting all the chrome back to 100%, it is dulled and pitted in places. However, I did spend a minute with a spray of wd40 and rag on one of the worst looking areas which cleared 99%. - It actually comes with a few new spares including the large centre boot rear number plate light housing etc…. But my initial thought was that a few new really shiny bits will just detract from the original patina?!

Just for info and interest, he’s an 82 year old retired farmer and his modus-operandi has always been to have substantial 4x4 to run around in with another favourite’ in the garage just for special occasions, currently it’s a Porsche Cayenne SUV specked exactly how he likes it whatever the cost and logic.. Previously, back a while it was the mk2 but the one he clearly loved was a big barge of a mk9

As its an auto check the anti creep valve works OK. Its a valve in the front to back brake line with a solenoid in it. Basic function is when you pull up to a stop it holds the rear brakes on to stop the car creeping forward when still in drive. When you accelerate there is a switch on the throttle between the carbs that releases the valve. They work well usually but you do need to know its there in case of any problems. Also make sure you understand the function of the "Speed hold" switch on the right hand side of the dash. That holds it in second gear for either hard acceleration or as a help in slippery conditions to pull away in second to stop wheel spin. Make sure it is in the off position for normal driving or you`ll think the box isnt working right. Theyre not the nicest of gearboxes as they can be a bit fierce on the changes if you push it hard. Always a good idea to have the box serviced by someone who knows what theyre doing with them and at that mileage probably due an oil change in the box. Also dont skimp on oil changes for the engine too as back in the day when they went into the second hand market servicing usually went out the window and as its been sat for a long time it`ll be well overdue for one.

Lower front ball joints are shimmed to a specific clearance and they have a fibre cup fitted in the bottom housing and so shims are removed to get the correct amount of play until the fibre cup wears out, we used to often find the cup worn through and the pin then very worn. Not to difficult to replace and reshim.

Stuart. 

[Bfg]

Looks good Tony.   

Stuart has said most anything that I would have.  Naturally any car owned for forty years and unrestored will have age-perished rubber and internally oxidised electrical connections. Odd things, like the front sub-frame mounts had completely failed on my last Daimler (same body shell).  The rear inner valance panel, under the corners of the rear bumper are notorious for rusting away even on low mileage cars like my last.  There's lower A and B-post's rot ..from the inside out, so watch out for bubbling where they meet the sill, and of course the bottom of the sill.  Usually when being restored - the bottom half of the front wing (rear of the wheel-arch) is opened up to repair the top of the sill inside those voids.  the underside of,  and around, the side lights is also a hot spot for rust. The top side seam was lead loaded. when moisture gets in it will bubble.  

These cars pull well with the ~210bhp engine, but the car's construction is so very heavy that a TR4 is quicker off the mark and very much more nippy around bends.  The standard Jaguar saloon rolls a lot, and carried a nose weight penalty over the Daimler V8,  but it pulls like a train once the initial inertia is overcome.  Horses for courses, the Jaguar & Daimler when driven stately, albeit quickly are surprising comfortable when considering their era.  Great for motorways and A-class roads, but even with a 3.8 manual they struggle to be quick around narrow country lanes.   Thankfully they do fit inside a standard garage, but they are a foot wider and 15" longer than a TR4.  I've read that oil pressure on the straight-six should be a minium of 40psi at 2000 revs, My XK with the same 3.8 engine is steady at 50psi. 

Brake servos can be troublesome as the control valve can rust-in even when the diaphragm is still good.  The pipes to it can internally collapse with the vacuum, even though the cloth covering looks fine from the outside.    Carbs are most likely diaphragm SU's (HD6's) which can leak with a vengeance when the rubber gives up.  Air and fuel filters on farmer's car may well be filthy.   Farmers work very long hours and usually have a lot of vehicles and equipment to maintain. I'd ask about and check the servicing of this car.  if teh car has PAS then the pump is robust but the filter needs to be cleaned out, and do check those hoses for cracking.  Steering is by box rather than rack and pinion.  Topping up its oil on my Daimler was 'a challenge'.    Diff oil leak is much the same as any live axle. usually the front seal has dried and and its lip failed. But check the rear cover nuts are evenly pinched up, and that it's not been overfilled.  

The edges of the wooden dash-top, which are against the windscreen is a thin lip. Usually this is where varnish delaminates and rot starts.  A car that's been parked outside in the sun a lot, has UV damage to wood cappings and leather.  A dried out surface, which is then damp is worse case scenario.   Leather in these cars is robust, but copious amounts of hide-feed ought to be a first priority, otherwise its stitching tends to cut through or snap.  Carpets and headlining are wool which can attract moth damage and other little buggers.  Mould also likes to grown on the wool headlining but mostly it can be carefully vacuumed off using a curtain-brush attachment.  Under-felt is thick and everywhere, and that tends to hold moisture, especially from leaky windscreen and scuttle vent.  Look out for mice damage to the underside of seats, carpets and wiring with barn finds.  Daimlers had adjustable seat backs to the front seats, I believe that was an option on the Mk2's.  They instead had rear seat tables.   Daimlers also didn't have the tunnel box, which carries heater pipes to the rear.

On a personal note, I'm adverse to cheeky offers.  A Fair offer is kinder and befriends the seller.  And in the big picture of ownership the difference between cheeky and fairly valued is not so much. 

Jaguar's are great cars to have as well as a TR.  They are very different but with a whole cabinet of virtues.  I liked owning the two, so I might choose which to use according to the destination and weather, and daylight hours. 

All the Best, Pete

 

[stuart]

25 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Looks good Tony.   

Stuart has said most anything that I would have.  Naturally any car owned for forty years and unrestored will have age-perished rubber and internally oxidised electrical connections. Odd things, like the front sub-frame mounts had completely failed on my last Daimler (same body shell).  The rear inner valance panel, under the corners of the rear bumper are notorious for rusting away even on low mileage cars like my last.  There's lower A and B-post's rot ..from the inside out, so watch out for bubbling where they meet the sill, and of course the bottom of the sill.  Usually when being restored - the bottom half of the front wing (rear of the wheel-arch) is opened up to repair the top of the sill inside those voids.  the underside of,  and around, the side lights is also a hot spot for rust. The top side seam was lead loaded. when moisture gets in it will bubble.  

These cars pull well with the ~210bhp engine, but the car's construction is so very heavy that a TR4 is quicker off the mark and very much more nippy around bends.  The standard Jaguar saloon rolls a lot, and carried a nose weight penalty over the Daimler V8,  but it pulls like a train once the initial inertia is overcome.  Horses for courses, the Jaguar & Daimler when driven stately, albeit quickly are surprising comfortable when considering their era.  Great for motorways and A-class roads, but even with a 3.8 manual they struggle to be quick around narrow country lanes.   Thankfully they do fit inside a standard garage, but they are a foot wider and 15" longer than a TR4.  I've read that oil pressure on the straight-six should be a minium of 40psi at 2000 revs, My XK with the same 3.8 engine is steady at 50psi. 

Brake servos can be troublesome as the control valve can rust-in even when the diaphragm is still good.  The pipes to it can internally collapse with the vacuum, even though the cloth covering looks fine from the outside.    Carbs are most likely diaphragm SU's (HD6's) which can leak with a vengeance when the rubber gives up.  Air and fuel filters on farmer's car may well be filthy.   Farmers work very long hours and usually have a lot of vehicles and equipment to maintain. I'd ask about and check the servicing of this car.  if teh car has PAS then the pump is robust but the filter needs to be cleaned out, and do check those hoses for cracking.  Steering is by box rather than rack and pinion.  Topping up its oil on my Daimler was 'a challenge'.    Diff oil leak is much the same as any live axle. usually the front seal has dried and and its lip failed. But check the rear cover nuts are evenly pinched up, and that it's not been overfilled.  

The edges of the wooden dash-top, which are against the windscreen is a thin lip. Usually this is where varnish delaminates and rot starts.  A car that's been parked outside in the sun a lot, has UV damage to wood cappings and leather.  A dried out surface, which is then damp is worse case scenario.   Leather in these cars is robust, but copious amounts of hide-feed ought to be a first priority, otherwise its stitching tends to cut through or snap.  Carpets and headlining are wool which can attract moth damage and other little buggers.  Mould also likes to grown on the wool headlining but mostly it can be carefully vacuumed off using a curtain-brush attachment.  Under-felt is thick and everywhere, and that tends to hold moisture, especially from leaky windscreen and scuttle vent.  Look out for mice damage to the underside of seats, carpets and wiring with barn finds.  Daimlers had adjustable seat backs to the front seats, I believe that was an option on the Mk2's.  They instead had rear seat tables.   Daimlers also didn't have the tunnel box, which carries heater pipes to the rear.

On a personal note, I'm adverse to cheeky offers.  A Fair offer is kinder and befriends the seller.  And in the big picture of ownership the difference between cheeky and fairly valued is not so much. 

Jaguar's are great cars to have as well as a TR.  They are very different but with a whole cabinet of virtues.  I liked owning the two, so I might choose which to use according to the destination and weather, and daylight hours. 

All the Best, Pete

 

I`d take issue with the MK2 not being good round the lanes, I can assure you a well set up 3.8 manual can leave a Police Granada standing round them. 😉😄

Stuart.

[John Morrison]

……won’t ask you how you know Stuart!

[Tony_C]

Thanks Pete, all excellent advice and I appreciate your point about differentiating between a cheeky and fair offer; he doesn’t need the money and wouldn’t sell to me at any price if he didn’t think I was the right custodian. Therefore, I’m hopeful….

it’s dusty and a lot of things will need checking and sorting but, I’m seriously amazed at the overall condition and quality- I’ve had/got a few later Jags that are more shiny with full main dealer service history; this one really has got something about it though…… I will go over the weekend with a calm head, cold eyes and armed with Stuart and your sound advice and we will see?

[stuart]

18 hours ago, John Morrison said:

……won’t ask you how you know Stuart!

Its a good tale.

Late seventies a couple of my friends (Ex London villains who`d moved to Cornwall to go straight as they`d had enough of doing time) ran a car bodywork business and the local plod on the patrol cars became friends as they often got involved with paint work on damaged accident repairs. One of the plod a guy named Barry was interested in learning panel work so used to come in and help out when off shift. Used to really wind the neighbours up when his mates dropped in for a cuppa and there would be a row of Mk1 Granada jam sandwiches parked outside the workshop.

This particular night I`d been at a local night club and leaving at about 1 am (hadnt been drinking) suddenly spotted in the rear view mirror in the distance the familiar square headlamps of the Granada, Thought I would have a bit of sport, I did know the road really well which helped and eventually pulled into the paintshop yard about ten miles away and a few seconds later I see the Granada just crawl past the end of the lane and quick flip of the blue lights and gone.

Next time I saw him he had a right go at me as he had a newbie in the passenger seat and was very embarrassed that he couldnt catch me and had been "Door handling" it  to even get close.

Stuart.

[John Morrison]

Stuart, you should write your memoirs.

John

[Ian Vincent]

If I were in your position, I’d go for it.  They are lovely cars.

Rgds Ian

[Bfg]

On 7/9/2026 at 2:46 PM, stuart said:

I`d take issue with the MK2 not being good round the lanes, I can assure you a well set up 3.8 manual can leave a Police Granada standing round them. 😉😄

Stuart.

I was comparing the Mk2 with a TR4.   ..well the 4A anyway  ..which I maintain has much nippier steering and handling than a ton n' three quarters Jaguar saloon.  And one of the great advantages., especially nowadays, is that the TR is a foot narrower for when you encounter someone coming around the bend the other way. 

One of my own chase experience was myself (solo) in a Mk2 Spitfire, 1100cc, and a police Ford Escort, as used by the Warwickshire Police.  The late night run back from Birmingham / Solihull to my home in Warwick was 'unusually brisk'.  I hadn't realised it was a police car, just a pair of headlamps in the rear view mirror who appeared to be trying to catch me whenever there was a bit of a straight.  They turned out to be a friendly couple of lads who accepted the invitation to come in for a cuppa ..very much to the surprise and panic of one of my house-share mates.  

[harlequin]

When I was a teenager I had a BSA Super Rocket, one dark evening I was heading down the lane coming out of our village and passed going the other way the local copper on his noddy bike. This bloke was a grumpy old sod who took delight in stopping the local kids and giving them a lecture, I was doing nout wrong but didn't wantl the hassle so got a move on as I guessed that he'd turn around and stop me. Half a mile later I glanced over my shoulder and there was his headlight.

I went round a couple of bends in the road and went up the drive of a house that lay well back from the road and turned my lights off. Imagine my shock when about 30 seconds later a copper on a 650 Triumph going like the clappers went past.

I gave it 5 minutes and went back the way I came from

George