Recommended Engine lift

[PotTeR]

Evening all,

It's time the old girl (67 4A) had some extensive attention after a decade of use with little reinvested.  Plan to change the rear crank seal as primary aim.

On the hunt for a decent engine lift /crane which will only be used on the TR.  Any tips from those in the know on brands to go for/avoid?  Lots of new stuff in usual places online but not confident buying stuff like that without a recommendation.  A decent second hand one that is tried and tested might be preferable.  In Lincs

 

Many thanks

Andy

[PriceLes]

This model in the background seems to be available worldwide under various suppliers. With the legs up the footprint is around 800mm wide and 700mm deep so fairly compact. I have lifted everything from engines to my lathe, dead reliable (bought it around 2012 iirc) and only advice would be put some form of preservative on the top of the ram when stored.

If it’s a short term use, borrowing one might be the better option or renting one if available and have the means to cart it.

Edited July 8 by PriceLes

[harlequin]

Facebook Marketplace usually has one or two advertised, the going price seems to be about £100. Buyers beware ofcourse as there's no guarantee 

George 

[Chris Hale]

Hi

There is one for sale in the classified adds on the TR Register website 

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classifieds/item/228

[Malbaby]

One important consideration is that the legs of a mobile lift will fit between the wheels.

[Lebro]

+1

Bob

[RogerH]

The basic MachineMart crane works well but the legs are apprx 1" too wide to go in easily from the front.

I was planing on cutting/shaping the legs to sort this out on the one I was using. But had to return to owner before I got the angle grinder out. 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cfc100-1-tonne-folding-workshop-crane/

 

Roger

[harlequin]

25 minutes ago, RogerH said:

The basic MachineMart crane works well but the legs are apprx 1" too wide to go in easily from the front.

I was planing on cutting/shaping the legs to sort this out on the one I was using. But had to return to owner before I got the angle grinder out. 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cfc100-1-tonne-folding-workshop-crane/

 

Roger

I had the same issue but took a different approach, I supported the chassis on timber blocks (sections of railway sleeper) and removed the front wheels. I also had to remove the front bumper to get in close enough but make sure there is some padding for the front valance 

G

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

We have an Old Oak Engineering Company screw thread operated engine crane.   Looks like a taller version of the TR gearbox lift crane.  They pop up for sale every now and then.   Get the folding version!  It is very precise as the lift and lower is operated by a screw thread not an all or nothing hydraulic ram.

There is a fixed version on Gumtree currently.   https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/engine-geabox-hoist/1513729341

It folds and can be lifted into a car’s boot, will store upright against the garage wall or on the floor partly under the TR.     Narrow enough to go between Sidescreen front/rear wheels.   Lifts engine and gearbox with OD    In all a good purchase back in the 1970’s.   Only criticism.  Wheels are not fully articulating and is just too wide legged to get under the TR engine build frame.   We have a work around for that though.

Edited July 9 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[StevecTR4]

Hi Andy,

What area of Lincolnshire are you in.

I have used SGS engineering for a few bits including engine crane, stands etc. Finding good competitive service.

Most of this type of equipment on the market seems to be from the same source with different stickers.

The width of the legs needs a little planning but can be overcome. With wheels removed from the car it comes down to having space and a good surface to roll the crane back. Especially with gearbox still attached.

Elevating the rear of the car may help with clearance.

Be mindful that the rating of these cranes with extending jib is reduced as it reaches further out.

There seems to be low profile versions available that may slide under a TR easier. However academic if the wheels are off.

Steve

[Lebro]

+1 for simply removing the wheels.

Bob

[Trev Good]

On 7/8/2026 at 2:02 AM, PriceLes said:

This model in the background seems to be available worldwide under various suppliers. With the legs up the footprint is around 800mm wide and 700mm deep so fairly compact. I have lifted everything from engines to my lathe, dead reliable (bought it around 2012 iirc) and only advice would be put some form of preservative on the top of the ram when stored.

If it’s a short term use, borrowing one might be the better option or renting one if available and have the means to cart it.

Or keep the arm in the down position, ram closed!

[Trev Good]

2 hours ago, StevecTR4 said:

Hi Andy,

What area of Lincolnshire are you in.

I have used SGS engineering for a few bits including engine crane, stands etc. Finding good competitive service.

Most of this type of equipment on the market seems to be from the same source with different stickers.

The width of the legs needs a little planning but can be overcome. With wheels removed from the car it comes down to having space and a good surface to roll the crane back. Especially with gearbox still attached.

Elevating the rear of the car may help with clearance.

Be mindful that the rating of these cranes with extending jib is reduced as it reaches further out.

There seems to be low profile versions available that may slide under a TR easier. However academic if the wheels are off.

Steve

I've always left the crane/engine and gearbox in situ and wheeled the car out from under on all that I've worked on. Photo shows my Scimitar v6 and gearbox being lifted, when the first lift over the steering rack completed, I lowered the car back onto it's wheels and raised the engine hoist higher then pushed the car back.

Edited July 9 by Trev Good

[james christie]

9 minutes ago, Trev Good said:

Or keep the arm in the down position, ram closed!

A lifetime in construction machinery - trying to persuade folks to buy mine rather than somebody else's - taught me to shut down everything with all the rams closed up.

james

[Rob Salisbury]

Hi Andy,

          Totally dependant on your garage setup and completely off the wall but a 4" x 2" RSJ up in the rafters and one of the 240V electric winches hanging from it and you are good to go, no mucking around with legs going under the car and getting in the way!! .... 2 RSJs 10 feet apart and another winch and you can take the body off the chassis with ease.          Ask me how I know this!!

Cheers Rob

[PotTeR]

Thanks all - some really useful considerations

 

[Trev Good]

On 7/9/2026 at 1:58 PM, james christie said:

A lifetime in construction machinery - trying to persuade folks to buy mine rather than somebody else's - taught me to shut down everything with all the rams closed up.

james

Being a farmer helped me realise this! Funny how many still keep their front lift arms up on their tractors though!

[stuart]

16 hours ago, Trev Good said:

Being a farmer helped me realise this! Funny how many still keep their front lift arms up on their tractors though!

In the old days most tractors wouldnt keep pressure up anyway so link arms, front end loaders etc would be on the floor by morning anyway especially as few had double acting rams on anything..

Stuart.

[PriceLes]

I have no idea what the other guy is waffling on about,  I did post the stored ( Ram closed bar a few mm so the body does not contact the frame) footprint as 800x700. The only real mod needed was making an arm for the bleed screw so it could be lowered with some precision.

As far as preserving things needed or not, it is simply part and parcel of having machines tools (lathe, mill,CNC mill) so a carry over.

By Jove, the bottom section of the ram is stained and probably rarely seen the light of day. An oil change for sure.

Edited Monday at 03:31 AM by PriceLes