Steve Morris Posted July 8 Report Posted July 8 After rebuilding the engine with a CP cam I came to refit the distributor today and couldn’t get it to seat down in the block - there is a gap of approximately 1/4 inch so I must be doing something wrong. The drive appears to be in the right place but I can’t account for the gap. The distributor is a CR type which was I think recurved to suit an SAH 357. I had assumed that the curves were the only difference between the CR and CP distributor but maybe the casting/drive is different too? Advice much appreciated! Cheers Quote
Steve Morris Posted July 10 Author Report Posted July 10 Managed to get it seated with a bit of jiggling - rotated the crank back and forth and it’s finally dropped in 👍🏻 Quote
Steve Morris Posted July 11 Author Report Posted July 11 (edited) I think key to getting the pedestal to seat is positioning the oil pump shaft just right so the distributor drive sits down far enough and in the right place. Long nosed pliers reached down just far enough to turn it. Sorry if this is completely obvious but might be helpful to someone. Edited July 11 by Steve Morris Quote
Bluestone Posted July 14 Report Posted July 14 Noted with thanks Steve One never knows when 'hands-on' advice like yours will come in, er, handy! Ray Quote
john.r.davies Posted July 14 Report Posted July 14 The gears on the cam shaft and dizzie/oil pump drive are diagonally cut (hypoid?), so that the drive gear must rotate as it is inserted. It rotates by about ten minutes of a clock face (60 degrees?) and the dog - the projection on the top of the oil pump drive shaft must be adjusted so that the slot in the bottom of the dizzie drive engages as itrotates into place. A tool to adjust the pump shaft is very useful! A length of bar, or a tube, cut to fit rhe pump dog. It may also.be used to drive the oil.pump and ciculate oil before starting a rebuilt engine. John Quote
Steve Morris Posted July 15 Author Report Posted July 15 Yes, need to fab up one of those tools John. is turning the oil pump directly better than turning it over on the starter without a spark and fuel prior to restart after rebuild? I’m a few days away from doing just that after a full rebuild. Looking forward to it but want to get it right - it’s been quite a journey! 😅 Quote
john.r.davies Posted July 16 Report Posted July 16 Me, I prefer to turn the fully assembled engine over on the starter, plugs out, before first start. Once there is oil pressure on the gauge, you're good to put the plugs back and go for a start. I worry that the oil will drain back down if the stsrt is delayed. Replacing the plugs is a lot quicker than putting the dizzy back in, and checking the timing, especially if you're on Pi. John Quote
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