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Posted

There shouldnt really be any rebound as such as thats what the shock absorbers are for.

Stuart.

Posted (edited)

Hi Clive...

Depends on what you like as an acceptable ride...If it's a track or similar use car, then stiff is good.

Personally, I like comfort, and compression with single rebound is what I would expect.

Edited by Malbaby
Posted
5 hours ago, Clive Brown said:

It's purely a road car and just seems a bit soft. 

Anyone got a TR6 near Marlow that I can compare with?

Hi Clive, I’m in Marlow (Bucks). DM me and you’re welcome to come by and we can compare…

Posted

FWIW there is only one damper setting that suits a given spring rate. That setup is called "perfect damping". It's when the spring/damper assembly returns to rest in the shortest possible time. Any more damping and you are "overdamped". The suspension takes longer than necessary to return to rest and you'll have a harder ride without any benefit. If it's *very* overdamped then the suspension won't have time to recover between bumps and you'll end up running on the bump stops on a bumpy road. Bizarre but true. Any less, and you're "underdamped". You'll have a softer but more bouncy ride and handling may suffer. Most vehicles are set up to be very slightly underdamped so that there is a small, single, oscillation past the rest position and back when the spring is compressed and released. That way you can be sure you're very close to perfect without being overdamped. If you want a stiffer suspension then you should change spring rate and damper setting in unison.

JC

Posted

The conventional test was to press down hard on the corner you are checking, let go abruptly and the corner should bounce up one and settle without further bouncing.

There is a tendency to blur the roles of springs and dampers. The latter are really to stop the springs from bouncing like rubber ball.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Andy Moltu said:

The conventional test was to press down hard on the corner you are checking, let go abruptly and the corner should bounce up one and settle without further bouncing.

There is a tendency to blur the roles of springs and dampers. The latter are really to stop the springs from bouncing like rubber ball.

 

That’s one of several things I want to test / look at on Clive’s car when he and I meet up early next week…

Posted

@Clive Brown came round my house yesterday and I can attest his cars' dampers are very soft. Softer & bouncier than our family saloon!

Compared to my 6, they're woefully soft and at today's local car club coffee he got to ride in another owners' car who also said they're softer than another 6 as well.

So I suspect he'll pop up here soon for advise...!

Posted

Hi Clive

Spax and Koni are both adjustable.   Spax has a small screwy thing whereby you can adjust with the dampers in place.
Koni need to be removed for adjustment (I believe)

Roger

Posted (edited)

Get the rear lever arms rebuilt and if you require a stiffer set up uprated it’s what our cars were designed for

Chris

Edited by trchris
Posted (edited)

You can now get adjustable valves to fit in the side lever arms. A matter of replacing existing and new oil. They are about £90 each. Which can  transform your car from road to track via a turn of a screw.  

Edited by Rob Waldron

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