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Posted

Hi all. Giving a biannual coolant flush and last time I was aware the tap was seized as was the radiator tap which I replaced with a bolt and ptfe tape.

I'd like to remove the block tap to clear any crude. I'm wary of breaking the tap thread ending up screaming wtf.

The car never overheats even crossing Spain and has the bog standard metal fan.

Should I leave well alone and drain only at the rad plug

John M

Posted (edited)

What type of tap is screwed in the block?    Winged type or original brass tap thing?

 

For my money……..Drain the block.  

The drain hole in the block is at the lowest point of the water jacket where all the crud and debris might collect.   Once the plug is out poke about with a screwdriver in tge hole to loosen anything Thats loose in there.   COVER THE STARTER WITH A PLASTIC BAG.


I too have replaced the drain plug in the block with a 1/2” unf stainless hex head screw.  If you’ve an inclination for one PM me as I think I still have a spare from the batch of 5 I had to order.

 Note   The radiator is thread BSP not UNF   So the taps/plugs are not interchangeable.

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Posted

Hi, its the original brass tap/lever. I still fear snapping the threaded part if  I rotate the whole tap. Does the perfect temp control suggest there's  no crud around 3/4 cylinder

Posted

The original tap in the radiator is identical to the block tap but thay are a different thread then?

Posted (edited)
54 minutes ago, John Mellor said:

The original tap in the radiator is identical to the block tap but thay are a different thread then?

As original that is correct 

Unified in the block. BSP in the radiator.

They differ by one thread per inch and are very close  in major diameter.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Posted (edited)

On our TRs a lot of threads that should be BSP (for liquids) are UNF.

Does this simplify the issue?

To fit a BSP ball valve I made an adapter UNFxBSP

AP1GczOHPQUZdib6AlJXkUDmF1py0U0vdWRFo2Uf

Edited by Z320

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