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Showing results for tags 'cooling'.
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Hi guys Looking for some advice regarding a cooling system issue, which I haven't had a chance to investigate yet. I drove the TR back from NSW to VIctoria the other day (500 mile trip) and ended up limping home with 2 litre coolant top-ups required every 30 miles or so for the last 100 miles. First issue I noticed was needing to top up approx 500ml of coolant after the first 100 miles... then the heater went stone cold... then the temp guage started creeping up above its usual position at just below 185. When this happened, I stopped to check coolant level and that was when I started the regular top ups to get home. Bear in mind the ambient temp was less than 10 deg C (pretty chilly!) and I was cruising at 55mph, albeit without overdrive (that's another story!). The gauge never got above the mark between 185 and 230 (not sure what that actually equates to?). I don't think the engine overheated at any point. It was running fine throughout, and the temp check thingo on the cylinder head looks to confirm that it hasn't got to more than 99 degC. I'm wondering if it might just be that the radiator cap has failed - I can't see any obvious sign of leaking from hoses etc, and no sign of water in the oil or out the back. The overflow tube was also noticeably hot and there were signs of coolant coming from that cap area (wasn't sure if that was from my re-filling though). Would a failing radiator cap reduce the pressure in the system such that flow through the heater would be cut off? Thanks in advance! PS - photos show the start of the journey which was very lucky... for once the boys in blue gave me a slap on the wrist instead of a hefty fine!
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HI All, looking for some advice. I've noticed that the core plug at the back of the cylinder head on my TR4 is weeping slightly and I need to change it. Looking at the usual suspects sites I can see that there are two types of 1 5/8" core plug, a cupped and a dished version. Dished currently in place. Is there any recommendations as to which is the best to use, or does it depend on the head and if there is a shoulder or not in the hole. Also I used a locktight formula to seal the plugs in place, many years ago, is there anything currently recommended to use to seal the core plug? I'm also assuming I can replace it with the head still in place by removing the battery, is this practical? Mark
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Pyrenese trip, we arived back Sunday, 2 weeks driving, just under a 1000 miles completed, car didn't miss a beat apart from getting to hot and blowing the expansion tank pipe, this was the result of driving at high altidude, i belive due to the air being thiner the electric fan did not work 100 percent, I suppose 40 degrees in the shade, second gear, 25 miles an hour did not help, views were spectacular, Andorra was amazing, not for the faint hearted this trip, I did find it challenging Why dousnt the electric fan work properly at altidude, Pink Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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I have just purchased stainless steel radiator return pipe with boss and thermostatic fan switch for my 73 uk TR6, part no.158417ss. However this new one is quite a different bended shape than my old one and the upper end does not seem to align correctly with the water pump housing connection. Fitting it would seem to bend the 90 deg. hose to quite a bit less than 90 deg. My old stainless one was not the best made but at least fitted but will need a repair. Were there different water pump housings and radiators that would explain my problem? Has anyone encountered this before? MARK -
On the way back from Malvern (which was very good) about half an hour from home, my temperature gauge started to drop to about 1/4 way past cold. My gauge is always in the centre when up to temperature and never really moves much, occasionally in traffic on a hot day it will rise. I’m assuming that the stat has stuck open. Is this a correct assumption? or is there any thing else I can check. I’ve not touched anything as of yet.
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Hello, some of you may recall I fitted Efi to my 4a, this included an ECU which can be connected to a laptop enabling the user to monitor many aspects of the engines condition. My car has always run cool as per gauge, between 65 and 70 degrees C, only creeping above when stationary and soon brought back under control with the electric fan. I had to fit a second temp sensor to supply the ECU, today I took the car out with my son-in-law driving, me with lap top on knee, surprisingly, or not, there was a difference between gauge and ECU temperature of 15 degrees C with the gauge reading low, although consistently low. On a longish drive the engine, on the ECU settled at 70-71 degrees C which is the mid reading on the gauge, however searching the forum the ideal running temperature is 82 to 88 degrees C, is this correct? and if so how do I raise my engine running temperature and can I get my gauge to read more accurately. I use a solid state voltage regulator which is supplying 10V, thanks in advance, Andrew
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Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered a couple of hundred miles at varying speeds but not above 65mph bearing in mind I am running in new cam followers. The engine warms up very quickly and runs with the temperature gauge needle a couple of mm above where it was previously. It seems that the gauge is reading correctly because the electric fan cuts in at about the same point. I have checked the timing and that is spot on, as is the mixture. I did find that when I re-filled the cooling system after replacing the head and radiator that it wouldn't accept the full 8 litres specified in the WSM and I initially put that down to the heater not having been drained but now I wonder if it was because of an airlock. When I check the coolant level, there is no apparent loss and thus far no evidence of bubbles which might indicate head gasket issues. For the moment all I am going to do is keep on using it but any suggestions would be gratefully received. Rgds Ian
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Hi, I have a TR7 SD1 3.5 V8. I have two conflicting goals. I am trying to strip as much weight out of the car as possible, but (with a Sydney summer just around the corner) would still like to be able to drive the car on 37 C days without being hospitalised. Can anyone provide advice on installing a modern, light A/C system? I have thrown the radio away so have some spare dash space for controls. On a similar topic, are there any potential mods to the heater to reduce weight? Best regards Michael
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So always hearing about electric fans and how they save 100hp blah blah. Well I was looking for an electric water pump for my Turbo powered F3 car as when she stops in hot weather after a burn the fans start going. But of course the water isnt circulating so I thought why not have an electric water pump to circulate the water one engine is off but fans are still going. Well after reading up about Hp saved and stuff I was wondering, has anyone ever fitted an electric water pump in their TR ? Why not? many want electric fans and an electric pump is the same principle, Hp saved and faster warm up times etc. Personally I dont even use an electric fan in my 5 or 6 but it might be handy to use as a supplementary cooler for someone or even as an emergency carry pump. Anyone ever used one and if not why not if your so convinced regards an electric fan? Tony
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I want to temporarily measure the coolant temperature accurately. My TR4A <seems> to run a bit hot, but I don't know if its just the gauge or something worse. So I am looking for a bit of kit that I can temporarily install to check the temperature against what the gauge is saying. Then can see if there is actually an issue. Any ideas? Ian.
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Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/brake-ducts-ducting/revotec-aluminium-air-inlets http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/silicone-ducting-hose/revotec-flexible-ducting-hose-2 Do these Moss heat carb shields work and are they simple to fit, ie, will i fup uck my carb settings by unbolting the carbs? (do I also need to add gaskets) £46 seems a lot for a bent piece of tin ! http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/-357876.html I was going to slide this over the fuel lines as they sit v close to the extractors. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/design-engineering-cool-tube
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CR chassis. New Radiator bottom hose is tight up against the cross member. Now the bottom hose boss/pipe on the Radiator does have a slight bend as is correct but should it also be bent downwards allowing the hose to sweep up and thus clear the chassis? Its almost as if the rad brackets should be slightly higher (therefore allowing the rad to sit lower). The downside to this would mean the two stays would have to be altered otherwise due to triangulation the rad would not be vertical! Another minor point theres no way in its current configuration would the rubber isolation washers fit.! Thoughts anyone? Dave
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Hi Everyone. A seasonal conundrum - I can't get any heat out of the heater!! Scuttle vent lid OPEN, heater core backflushed and found to have a healthy water flow. New heater control valve fitted. Both heater hoses hot during test and heater box also pleasantly warm to the touch. Blower fan aking a blower noise so assumed to be working [negative discharge on voltmeter also suggesting it is running]. I assume the airduct control cable is pushed in fully to divert all airflow to the screen vent outlets? Only thing missing appears to be hot air!! HELP!! Best wishes Willie
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Sorry - SOLD I have one of the famous Everco 74648 heater valves available (new) if anyone wants one, brought over from the States by a friend as I have bought one to fit to my TR6 and replace the standard part. Will sell at cost (£22.34) plus P&P or bring up to Malvern - will be there Sat & Sun. Cheers Steve
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A company I came across several years ago, looking for component to make up a fuel pressure testing rig, and have subsequently used for odd requirements. They seem to have a vast selection of products, and by phone were knowledgeable and more than helpful . . . . . also have an ebay shop https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Venair-Silicone-Hose-World/Terms-and-Policys.html Usual disclaimers, I don't know the folks there, simply found them useful ! Cheers Alec
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I am gradually working through the usual list of suspects in order to keep the 3A running at an acceptable temperature. Yesterday I noticed that the temp gauge was registering a little north of 30 degrees. This on a car that has not moved for 3 weeks and was sitting in a cool garage. Just wondered if this is the normal resting position of the needle or whether this might be indicative of an over-reading gauge. If the latter, it would explain a couple of things. Anyone any knowledge? As a supplemental, what are the pair of dots either side of the 85 degree line? Never noticed them before. Many thanks as ever - Miles ~original
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The subject of radiators comes up from time to time - cost of rebuilding etc. I've just had the Super Snipe rad rebuilt by Raysons of Yeovil, a firm I've used occasionally for the past 30 years. The original 1958 rad, now somewhat the worse for anno domini, I wished to preserve as much as possible rather than replace. Not that replacements exist for cars as rare as an S1 Super Snipe . . . . . The old Humber has a big radiator, 27" x 19" x 2½" . . . . . a lot bigger than TR, for example. Yank Tank size as Raysons put it.This one required a recore, and some judicious repair to the brass casing and steel bracketry. Proper old-fashioned job in proper old-fashioned materials. See photos below. Cost came out at £307 including the vat, which isn't too bad for the size - and the fact that the various repairs to the metalwork are barely visible even to me, who knows where the problems were ! Usual disclaimers. Cheers, Alec
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Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
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Hi Anyone used these £145 alloy rads on ebay ? LEN
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Hi, I am thinking that i might like to have an air-conditioning kit fitted to my UK spec right hand drive, petrol injected TR6 which is a 1974 CR model. Does anyone have any experience with this and who is the best outfit to have this done by?
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Hi All, just trying to replace the wide fanbelt on my 1960 3a but struggling with the narrow gaps it has to pass through. 1. The aftermarket steering rack is v. close to the crankshaft pulley securing bolts, but I can loosen the rack mounts to get clearance there. 2. The gap between the cross brace and the crankshaft pulley is also less than the width of the belt, but I see Mr. Haynes recommends unbolting the brace to get the belt in/out. 3. Now I see the gap between the fan bolts and the radiator is also less than the fan belt width Mr. Haynes makes no mention of removing the radiator. Has anyone got any tips on this (simple) roadside task? Haynes does suggest I strap a second replacement belt in place ready for next time but that doesn't help me much now. Maybe this is the reason so many people go for the narrow belt conversions..... Keith
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Been doing a bit of research into a new radiator for BUO's rebuild. I must admit I knew there were to types the pre CP75000 and the post but I thought it was just a repositioning of the of the bottom outlet (although why I've no idea) but when Looking at alloy rads ( que some running for crucifix and holy water) sold by Moss the pre 7500 rads have the rad cap on the top of the rad wheras the post 7500 rads have the cap inset into the top of the rad, any ideas why ? Racestorations appear to only sell the post 75000 type http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/cooling-system/radiators-hoses-fittings/aluminium-radiators-420355.html ATB Graham
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Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
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I have a CR car immigrated from the UK where it underwent an amateur (but looks, I think, relatively sound) restoration in the late 90s. Part of this was the installation of a Kenlowe fan. The switch/light for it under the dash was swathed in electrical tape which I thought was to keep the smoke in but after having a go at the dash recently and neglecting to redo it all, I found that it was actually to prevent getting burns from accidentally touching the contacts whilst it's running... I had always assumed that little box under the thermistor dial held a relay but given the amount of amps that must be going through those wires to heat them up am I right in assuming there's no relay and I should (now the blister is healing) get onto this? Does anyone (Stuart?) know whats in that little box (circa 1990s)? Cheers MT
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I was out in my TR3a yesterday and after returning it to the garage noticed that the electric fan was still operating. It turns out that the thermo switch has failed and is shorting to earth permanently. I have ordered a new switch from Moss but has anyone else had the same problem. Part of the fun of ordering the new switch was getting the correct temperature range. Up until it failed, I have been very happy with how the cooling system is operating, the engine warms up quickly and the fan only seems to come on in traffic. "Simples", I thought, buy another like the one I had. The only problem was that when I looked up the invoice for the original order back in 2010 it states: IM50090 - Thermoswitch for 88 - 79C And when I look at the current Moss catalogue it shows that part number as being for a 86 - 81C 'switch, and it's out of stock. So I ended up ordering IM50120 which is the current listing for the 88 to 79 deg C switch. Hopefully it will work as well as the old one did. Rgds Ian PS Considering the limited mileage that the car does, the original switch hasn't lasted very well.
