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Having used and abused lots of MX5 boxes in the past I can't see any advantage of using one in a TR6. A good rebuilt box is just as good if not better with a A type overdrive 7 speed v the 5 speed of the MX5. But if you like a project crack on!

The car is a real time warp..

Hopefully these Stuart?

Buttons may have been for additional spots now removed. Stuart

Yup!

Here is the spare leather I mentioned , I’m sure that the back seat had never been touched before.. my new farmer friend thought I was looking for loose change which he said was his! - thanks Guys - absolutely no water ingress or damage. What do these buttons do and are they original, spray oil on the chasing rozzers? - On a slightly more serious note, I can’t find the brake servo; was this standard?

Other car looks like TR4 Stuart

Spotted on a FB post about Hammer Horror films. Acrtress Yutte Stensgaard Stuart

Negotiations are continuing…. Albeit, not at any pace! I took him up the road and frightened the bejebeejees out of him in the TR…. Maybe not the best move, time will tell? - He’s got a 170mph Porsche in the garage?! Can anyone identify the other car from the rear quarter in the spray shop? - Loads of paperwork, it’s apparently gone from the (lovely imo gun metal grey to white, to the current dark blue. I still couldn’t find any proper rust anywhere although from the paperwork this could have been done? My photography is rubbish but under the back seat etc, looks amazing (it looked almost galvanised to me?) and original spare leather hide tucked away behind the back seat!

1743 is still winning though?……. In the ‘real world’!

My apologies Rob. Love it 🥰 I have a few Scottish Isles souvenir rocks too and a very special one from an Isles tour to Brittany which has glittery specs throughout.

I'd really recommend that you read through the original post again, carefully and in its entirety. And take a look at the photo or video.

A lump of Scourie gneiss from the type locality on the north west coast of Scotland and picked up on the TR Isles Tour in 2014. Age around 3 billion years, the oldest rocks in Europe and handy to apply pressure to things that need gluing. Cheers Richard

Do you want to kid me?

What makes you think I changed anything, Marco? I just replaced the broken bracket and the old rubber exactly as they were.

Sorry me, I wanted to help you to get your own insight. Why do you ask and don’t install it like it was before?

18th July - Carmen's Work in Progress - Trailer tent ^ I pulled the trailer tent out of storage / the garden to check its towing was right for Carmen's towing bracket. I'm happy with that. No adjustment needed. ^ I also wanted to ensure that the trailer's lock was no worse than that of Katie, the TR4A, and surprisingly its probably even better. No worries there. I made up a paper numberplate, and refitted the trail-tent's flags.. just as a first try the trailer on the road behind the Jag .. and although there's no wing or door mirrors fitted, the trailer's visibility through the interior rear-view mirror was better than Katie, despite the TR4 being fitted with the Surrey-top backlight. I'm pleased with that. Pete

Many thanks Rob , I’ll take it off and get a like for like replacement. My soldering skills are not the prettiest ill leave the regulator untouched as everything was working before . I had the car out and the temperature was rather toastie just before the problem came about so probably cooked the alternator even though there is a heat shield over it thanks again

This has nothing to do with my "problem", Marco. There are even no vibrations. Never, not before, not yet.

Yes your alternator is defunct Scott. The easiest thing is to replace it - though depending on type it may just require a new set of brushes and slip-ring assembly or the internal regulator or diode stack may have died. All that is relatively easy to do if you are capable of some soldering; or have a local vehicle electrician who might do it. For replacement there are few options which no doubt others will share, but again like-for-like is easiest as it uses the same mounting bits as you have now. The RB106 should not be doing anything except perhaps acting as a convenient connection point to minimise wiring changes. Some owners like to leave it in situ and just remove the innards and earth connection, making a direct connection from D to A and A1 so the wires connect as before. Perhaps that is what the previous owner did.

From Suzanne's reference to Gallipoli and the Australians, a boomerang. I'm not aware of any Specialist, Weapon, Returning, Unit in the ANZACs so it was probably some poor ockkers lucky charm. John

Wow, interesting forensic work here! I just checked and the dot is under the 'O', so presumably a 1962 TR4 rear window and therefore roof. The rest of the car is basically a January 1967 E reg. TR4A but a bit like Trigger's broom with not many original bits still on show!

That is probably OK given the ambient temperature was 32 as shown by the other fuses. The whole point of a fuse is that it gets hot - and above rated current it gets hot enough to melt. Yours is running at one-quarter of the rating so a 6 degree rise sounds reasonable. Just make sure the fuse-holder and the fuse end caps are clean and bright - making a good contact.

You could check and find out your own. Don’t you own one of these chinese angle gauges? The TR engine, propshaft and diff are fitted in a Z-orientation. This meens for a Z-orientation, the best is to have the diff angled the same amount like the engine. On my 4A IRS I the factory did this wrong, so I modified the construction. The car runs with less fibrations this way. Ciao, Marco