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Update: soooo close! Here's where I stand: Heater fan = good Wiper motor = good at both speeds Running lights = good Headlights = good (both hi and lo beam) Turn signal = grrrrr..... kinda' works. (Full disclosure: I am not testing the turn signal with the actual lighting assemblies in place as I do not have them at this time. Instead, I am using old dash lighting bulbs, with their attendant typical sockets as testers connected by bullet connections into the loom.) The left side functions properly, including flasher! However, the right side lamps light but don't flash. I have read the flasher is very sensitive regarding current draw to function properly, could I be under-loading the flasher on the right side. Also, I seem to have continuity between the U/W (blue/white) wires under the dash and the X (B) terminal on the flasher- is this supposed to happen? The same terminal on the flasher also seems to connect to earth as well... Jamie

Have you thought about using a convex mirror? Wingard Convex Mirror

Instead of the R200 I had a Quaife ATB diff built into the stock diff carrier, so I do have that covered.

I have the stock Triumph chassis, not the Ratco. The chassis was in very good shape (50K original miles, well cared for) so I didn't go with Ratco. I welded in 6 reinforcement plates around the front diff mounts (BPNW kit), boxed in the front and rear diff bridges and reinforced the spring upper mounting with welded plates (TSI kit). The Ratco frames have an additional crossmember on each side under the floorboards, for strength. I called them and for a nominal fee they sent me the boxed steel pieces they use and I will weld them in at a later date. My car has been on a 2-post lift for several months and I want to let the frame settle for a while before I weld those crossmembers in on a 4-post lift so I'm not reinforcing a sag into the frame.

I think he has a Ratco chassis not the original Triumph chassis but any high HP IRS car would benefit from a LSD R200 even if only for the modern design.

Interested to know what modifications you did to the chassis to strengthen it....I found that after strengthening the rear, and replacing the body, the mid chassis flexed slightly....The factory IRS chassis is poorly designed and not strong enough.

Probably. Building the pair of amps took a full year of my spare time (pre-retirement) from design to simulation to building to tweaking. I have no plans to build another pair, especially now that I have the TR6 to obsess over.

Yes please I want one. Do I have to sell my house? Regards Harry

Ah! Less tweaking performance, more avoiding excess angulation. I suppose this would be a higher maitenance component than most, but that's no criticism. John

I recall no problem removing it, perhaps the plates were bolted to the chassis (I am at work 5000km from home so can’t look) They will go in a plastic bin with all the other discarded stock parts.

Oh, fat fingers! John

Interesting issue to get it in - or out again…?

That is how the car came to me.It handles OK at speed but of course a horse and cart compared to my Mk5 GTI. I will make a new radiator guard to mount the bigger Good Parts front anti roll and also top hat insert the chassis rails for the GP rear anti roll bar.

Thank you, Peter! Clear as fresh oil! But not the last bit. "ppm" = 'parts per million", which I interpret as a concentration, of a molecule, in this case ZDDP. There's only one atom of Zinc per molecule, however long the R hydrocarbon chains. So how are the PPM different for the molecule and the Zinc. I ask to be taught, not to challenge! John

You're not alone, I've got the exact same issue Dave, and will be interested to see the advice.

Hi Robert I like it. You have a problem (on the car) and you engineer a solution. Not overkill but functional. Well done Roger

Not much of a "design", really. It just needs to prevent the CV axles from drooping to more than 28 degrees below the horizontal (Goodparts spec) while allowing full movement to the upper bump stop. I used the lower bolt hole from the old lever shock mounts and the bolt at the bottom of the rear sway bar end link as convenient, existing attachment points. Since I won't be off-roading the TR6, it's mainly meant to protect the CV joints from overextension when I have the car on my 2-post lift. I suppose I could "tune" it by varying the strap length or material, but I don't really see the point for my application.

Interesting to see how you fitted the anti roll bar through the towing eye - and you have them on both sides?

325, not 3256! 🙂 Theoretical for now, but quite feasible. I will report back as the project progresses later this year. I've already begun the parts accumulation phase.

Hi John, It is indeed zinc that is measured, but the R groups add seven times the mass of zinc to the entire ZDDP molecule. And the oil companies have exploited that to allow some classic oils to ne cat-safe ( phosphate poisons cats). The R groups add a large mass to the ZDDP molecule. So some oils use that mass to seemingly boost the 'ppm' number. The R moiety is variable, and can give seemingly impressive "ppm ZDDP" ,but its a hollow claim. The correct way , in force when TRs were new, is to state the level as the ppm of zinc. To distinguish Zn in ZDDP as opposed to othe sources, the mass of Zn is given "ppm Zn as ZDDP". The difference between ZDDP contents is large, for the same number, because zinc itself accounts for , typically, only one seventh of the mass of the ZDDP molecule. So an oil with say "1400ppm ZDDP" has only "200ppm Zn as ZDDP". The devil is in the detail. Peter

Ah! So that's, a theoretical 3256bhp? Yes, please tell us all about it! We will all learn. John

Glad you got it sorted. I only just round to washing mine after Shelsley the drive there and back got it a bit mucky

I have 10 adapters and not one fits. None is UNC. I can't fit it where the banjo is as it's a stud. Bugger

Skimmed head & re-cut valve seats, new springs & stem seals (Landrover 🫢) has sorted the oil clouds from the exhaust. Changed the coolant system to fully pressurised & added a bleed valve on the back of the head which appears to have sorted the coolant dumping issue. It never ceases to amaze me how even small sometimes innocuous changes can have a significant impact somewhere else, but I guess that's what I enjoy about playing with these old tractor engines.

Ah, I hadn't thought of that !. The front one should be easier to access. Thanks Hamish. I'll report back