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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
Found 8 results
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I have a 1973 CR with fuel injection and a Lumenition ignition system and K&N air filter. I have noticed that when I am "cruising" at about 50mph or 60 in overdrive i get a slight hesitation/misfire. This is with just a slight pressure on the throttle to hold the speed. If I put my foot down the car pulls like a train with no issues and also accelerates from standstill without any issues. I only run 98 fuel and have filled up quite a few times during the summer but still have the same issue. It has a Bosch pump with the separate paper fuel filter which I have changed. I then changed the spark plugs but still have the same problem. A friend lent me his Magnecor leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm and still the same problem. When I start the car it needs the choke out but I can fully return it after only a mile (it does go fully back). When I came home after a show last weekend (about 60 miles) my wife was in the drive as I turned the car round and she said that it stunk of fuel (running rich?) I have attached photos of the new spark plugs which have now done about 500 miles Any ideas?? kc kc
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Hi All, A problem I’ve been trying to diagnose for a while. Weirdly, plug number two is showing all the signs of overheating - the electrodes appear white, with no brown or black colouration. I have checked the ignition - swapped over the coil, new plugs, I have run it on points and with Luminition optotronic ignition and the advance seems to be a few degrees BTDC. I have done a compression test and all cylinders are showing 150 psi after a few turns of the engine. And the valve clearances look good at 10 thou. I doubt it’s a fuelling issue as plug number one is running rich, and this points to ignition, however I’m struggling to think what’s left to check. However, it could be that the problem is actually with cylinder 1, and the fouling of the plug is coming from something other then the two much fuel, and running lean on plug 2 would cause overheating. Is it now worth taking the cylinder head off and checking the state of the valves and to see if the waterways around cylinder two are clogged? At the next opportunity, I might check to make sure the valve lift is consistent. Weirdly, I have noticed a potential new knocking noise coming from the engine, but this might be me tuning into random noises, as the sound softens once the engine is warm. I worry, I am just looking for issues now. Thanks in advance, Adam
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Hi Bit of a newbie here. I have a '57 TR3, which was running very nicely. But now seems to have no ignition. Possibly a short somewhere? The background The night before Gaydon, I drove part way up country to stay overnight. All was good and fine. Next morning, dead battery. I didn't give it too much thought. Jump start, fired up immediately and off we went. Stalled when nearly at Gaydon and had to have a jump start. Same again when leaving Gaydon. Knackered battery I assumed, so bought a new one on the way home. All was good. Parked at home in the garage. Went to start it yesterday, it cranked over nicely. I stopped cranking to rest it, and then went to push the starter again. Nothing. not a blip. No ignition light on the dashboard. Tested circuits using the old two leads & lightbulb method - there's power (but is it in the right place?). A bit of a poke about wasn't very enlightening. I tried to bridge the ignition key terminals. Still nothing. Any suggestions as what could be short circuit open circuit or just broken? Thanks Karl.
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This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
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Hi All Just want to do a quick check on IGN timing for a 72 Pi. The brown book lists the static timing as 11 degrees but no timing at idle, unless I’ve missed it, though it does for US cars. Now it’s a bit of a pain to slowly turn the engine over to get evrything in the right to check esp when the fan is in place and rad full of water. So two questions, is there a sneaky way or turning the engine over or what should the dynamic timing at idle, so circa 800rpm. Cheers Keith
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Hi all I can’t coax my 6 into life. So after rebuilding most of it I’ve come to the first start in many a year and it sort of won’t. Pretty much everything has been changed or refurbed so either I’ve got something wrong or I’m stupid (this latter one is high on the list of suspects, lol) I have fuel being supplied by a newly refurbed (everything) Pi system and it all seems to be getting to the right places and the starter turns the engine over pretty energetically. The main issue seems to be no spark at the plugs, so no attempt to fire. I’ve used one of those In-Line Ignition/HT Lead Spark Plug testers and get no flashes indicating a spark as I try to start. So I’ve gone through the IGN system step by step. The battery is new and pushes out 12.5V (diff to tell exactly as it an analogue multi-meter.) I’m getting that at the coil input and output terminals so the (new) coil seems ok and that current is delivered from the coil to the distributor end of the B&W LT lead, so no breaks in that. But that’s when it seems to fall apart. As soon as I connect that LT lead to the distributor connection I get a zero reading regardless of the position of the points. I would expect to see 12.5V when the points are open but zero when they’re closed as closing the points earths the system. But I get a zero reading all of the time so no on off sequence controlled by the points, which is what I expect, but I may well be wrong. But given my current vague understanding of old (ie non electronic IGN systems) I don’t know what to check next. So if anyone can correct any of my misconceptions or advise on what to try next I would be grateful.. Cheers Keith
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Hi all I was reading a post on here yesterday which suggested the correct dizzy would be a Lucas 22D? I was going to send mine to the Dizzy Doc for a refurb but I need to be sure its a 22D I cant see any stamp to say it is and worryingly its marked 08 1974 which suggests its not the original one from the car. Is a 1974 a 22D and anything I should look for? Or do I need another one? Thanks Andy
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Today I broke down, I went for a drive with tors, ice cream etc, driving progressively along the militarty road, all of a sudden car start running rough, then stops completely, Thought, cant believe this, just got back from Germany, 1200 miles, no probs, then this, so I had a check round and come to the conclusion it was the coil, baught a flame thrower a few years ago, sapose to be the dogs, only done about 6000 miles, so I was reluctant to find fault with it, I waited for it to cool down, still the car would not start, got it back home fitted an old coil and the car started and run without a problem, so much for flame throwers, so what shell I buy now? Pink Flame thrower
