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Showing results for tags 'instruments'.
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I noticed recently that the speedo was misbehaving. So I removed it from the car, which took a surprising short time of about 2 minutes. I took it apart and noticed that the needle and the its disc were sticking, so fiddled about with it as you do, before long a little spring clip fell out of the mechanism and the needle etc now moves freely. This little spring clip holds the milometer drive and reset lever together and is worn. There is another which secures the trip display also. i.e. there are 2. Both are worn. So I am after 2 of these spring clips which are 15mm long. Please see the pictures, I doubt wether I can buy these although I have enquires out. Has anyone got any or a old speedo which I can purchase and salvage the bits from, if so please message / PM me and hopefully we can come some arrangement. Thanks, John (I'm not sure that my signature automatically appears any more)
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Ok one for the electrical gurus......... To set the scene (apologies for length of this)..... I have a tr4 converted to negative earth with a lightweight Revington 40amp alternator fitted. I have a battery cut off switch wired into the ignition circuit. I also have the revington auxiliary wiring loom which gets its power from the battery side of the cut off switch and is switched via the ignition and a relay) Amongst other bits and bobs (interior lights, windscreen washers, radio,map light all low amp stuff) , that loom powers an electric revotec fan which is wired via a relay (there is also an override switch for this wired using a switching relay). I have also fitted relays for the dip and main beams and there are spot lamps and fog lamps. These are wired via relays to come on when the relay is powered by the dip (fog) or main beam (spot) with override switches on the dash which effectively make an earth to latch the relay when in the on position. The power for the lights etc comes from wires connected to the starter solenoid via a further auxiliary fuse box. The issue is that the ammeter shows a positive charge when the lights are on and more positive charge when the fog or spots are on (say 15 to 20 amps). Is thus a result of the source of the lights' power (ie the starter solenoid) or something else? Checked alternator with multimeter- runs about 12.8 volts tick over and gets up to 14 and a bit when revved so doesnt seem to be over charging. The needle on the ammeter rises with engine revs- it seems to be measuring load rather than battery charging. Alternator is three terminal type- big post for current and one to ignition and one to warning light. Light behaving normally -ie on when ignition turned on but off when running. Charged up battery fully to check wasn't in need of amps and still did same thing. No problem starting Any thoughts? Bob
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Hello, does anyone know of a source of speedometer internal components? I'm looking for a small white plastic gear which is located inside the speedo. There are 2 gears inside which are worm-driven, and one of them has cracked, which I'm pretty sure is the cause of my annoying needle flicker. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has had the same problem? I discovered the cracked gear during my investigation into the needle flicker. First I checked the speedo cable, which was in good condition. Then I rotated the speedo drive directly into the speedo with an electric drill, and this gave a steady needle. That stumped me at first because there was no obvious cause, but then I rotated the drive with a small screwdriver and noticed it was stiff to turn roughly every 20 rotations. So then I took the speedo apart to try to find what was causing the stiffness and eventually spotted a slight crack in one of the gears which must be increasing the gear tooth pitch and therefore causing the worm drive to jam slightly every time the crack passed it. Anyway, so that's why I'm looking for a replacement gear!! Any suggestions of a source of replacement gears will be much appreciated. Alternatively does anyone have a speedo for sale?. Working or not working (I just need the gear out of it).
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Is there an easy way ? As its raining again (why did I take the hard top off !) thought I would have a go at inserting my LED dash bulbs today. Feeling behind the dash all I can feel is wires and holding brackets, no obvious bulb holders ? Internet pics don't seem to show anything? Do you have to take the small gauges apart to change bulbs ? - eeek ? I am assuming that for the central cluster I can undo the wing nuts and pull the panel fwd for access (although I recall there was little spare wire on any gauges to allow much movement). Is it possible to replace the speedo and taco bulbs in situ? Good news, my dodgy fuel gauge is now working - the needle now flickers to the beat as my radio plays !!!!! ps, if earthing my fog/spot switch near the dash, does it matter what I earth to - dash panel, retaining brackets, or take the earth wires through into the engine bay ? ps, on a pull switch how do I know which is feed and which is earth ?? Thanks as always Happy Easter Eat Chocolate pps - my speedo doesnt have the bit that pokes out of the bottom to reset the trip counter - are these available or am I stick with the clear pipe ?
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Just about to replace my dashboard with a lovely burr elm one and cappings purchased at the Stonleigh show. How easy is it and are there any tips anyone can give me? I am considering changing the bulbs to LED to properly illuminate the instruments. Has anyone any experience of these bulbs and what is their longevity?
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Evening Folks, Speedo fail #1 - couple of years back - quickly narrowed to angle drive with your help Folks - angle drive replaces and gearbox tunnel access panel added for good measure - happy. Speedo fail #2 - couple of days back . Sudden large fluctuations in the needle (up and down between 20 and 60) with a slight but terminal sounding mechanical noise - a couple of seconds later and it froze at 40 before then dropping to zero. The cable square end driver thing is turning when running and cannot be stopped by hand (so not a fail #1). I have whipped the instrument out and got to grips with https://www.szott.com/lotusinfo/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf. On the inside of the speedo the magnet bar only does a half turn before meeting some sort of stop/block - i cant see what it is as i am having difficulty getting the needle off and therefore the face is still on. Just thought i would check in case there was a quick fix i am missing - any thoughts gratefully received. However, I get the feeling that i will be wasting my time doing any more and that i will be best packing the speedo off to John Ostick. cheers! Dave
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How can I make the temperature gauge show correct reading? I have a new "classic" electric Smiths gauge in my TR2, I've tried several senders and it always shows 20 degrees C to high reading, I have a voltage stabilizer that gives a little less than 10 V. I connected another 12V temperature gauge to the sender and checked with an infrared thermometer and both show same value, 20 deg C below the Smiths gauge reading. I put 4 senders in a pan with hot water and made readings at 4 different temperatures and I am using the one marked 8730 with the highest resistance. Would a resistance in series with the sender help, and has anyone got an idea of the size of such a resistance? Can the gauge be calibrated?
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Hello The wiring diagram (Advance Autowire) and (Haynes not so clear) show instrument lighting for 8 instruments - I have only 6 -Oil, Fuel, Temp, Ammeter, Speedo & Tacho on my 4a. Are the diagrams wrong or am I missing something? Thanks Keith
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Hi all I have been building a car for a friend and he wishes to run on a 123 dizzy with electronic tacho. The first question is what setting should the 123 be on for an average car. The second is the tacho has a + wire and a - wire where should these be connected for the tacho to work? I am thinking one to the ignition +ve and the other to the coil - ve ? Any help would be appreciated. Clem
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Hello, tinkering with my instruments. Any advise and thoughts on replacing bulbs with LED? Are they dimmable? Couldn’t find to much in the search. Thanks Keith
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Hi , I have an early tr4 myself (chassis around 6800). After some research, it turned out that my tr4 must have instruments with long needles. This like the tr3. My question was what about the lighting? My instruments (with short needles) have a light for each on the back. The tr3 instruments have two central lights, I thought. Is this correct? So for my tr4, do I have to have instruments with long needles and the system of two central lights (TR3) or the back of the new model (short needles TR4) and the front of a TR3 (convex glass, long needles). I hope someone can help me out :).
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Hi All A very quick question; does anyone know if the metal dash is different between the TR4 and the TR4A (aside from the fact the TR4A has the additonal veneered bit)? I want to put a TR4 metal dash on a TR4A and need to make sure the instruments and switches will still all fit. As usual, thank you all in advance!!! Adam
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Hi Folks, yesterday I renewed the battery on my '64 TR4 and the guy tested the battery under load [engine running, lights on]. It gave 13.8 volts so all well. However, the alternator conversion is causing the ammeter to give a significant apparent discharge. Does anyone have details of wiring which correct the ammeter reading to include alternator input? Pic attached of the ammeter with engine running and lights on. Best wishes Willie
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Hi All, I've been trying to fix my under-reading tachometer - it reads 4,000rpm when it really is 5,000rpm. Lower down the rev range it seems better and the speedo is pretty good compared with GPS. I've swapped over to a refurbed/calibrated gauge and its still no better. I've checked the cable and that seems OK, the inner turns freely and doesn't seem worn at the ends. Is there anything else I could check or change? Thanks Darren
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Hi all I have a 1972 PI with ignition on the steering column. I discovered the other day that the spring that returns the ignition key from "start" to "run" appears to have failed. Before going the whole hog and replacing the ignition unit (which seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut) I want to remove the ignition barrel and do some investigation. Plenty of instructions on how to do that, but I can't for the life of me find how to remove the padded trim around the keyhole. How is it fixed - I don't want to force it. Any guidance gratefully received!
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The Trip meter in UOV has never worked since we've had the car, not really a big issue ......except we have signed up for the Silverstone Retro run and have just received the route book, and its all written up as 'in .7 miles turn left' Etc so a working trip meter would be really useful. TR shop are looking to see if they have a replacement unit, but ideally I would like to keep the original speedo with the car and time really doesn't permit getting the original speedo rebuilt professionally. So anybody out there with a fix ? I've had a very careful peek inside and the problem appears to be that the arm that engages on the brass cog that drives the numbers doesn't appear to be able to advance the numbers on the display, it appears to be going through the motions but as they say 'where the rubber meets the road' or in this case where the 'tooth' meets the brass the 2 do not appear to have enough mechanical interface to increment the milage. ATB Graham
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Hi All Kind of linked to my previous Overdrive post (Electricy Help) but more help needed with my electrical bits. So for info it’s a UK 72 Pi and I’m installing ALL new Autosparks harnesses for the model and options. So the Autosparks mini harness code 865 goes from the relay and ends up with two spurs, one goes to the OD and connects via another little harness BC58, and hopefully I’ve got that bit ok now. But there is still that question where does the second spur off the 865 Relay to OD harness go. It has to go to the OD switch right? But harness has a yellow green wire and a plain yellow, but the switch has the same yellow green but a black. Hmm. I suppose the black earth from switch can connect to any earth but not sure about the single yellow from the OD harness (865)? Then there is a spur off the main harness, kind of after the heater and behind the Tacho. It contains 4 wires, 3 brown of varying thicknesses and a white with a red trace. So not sure what it is or where it goes. I was thinking through the bulkhead to supply the starter but not sure. Slightly daft question, apart from the Horn wiring do all three column switches go under the steering column harness cover (part 611369) I’m assuming they do but it seems a bit tight through the alloy column clamps (611529 and 611530). Hopefully pics below will help. Cheers Keith
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Hi Troops - gathering all the parts needed to put the dashtop and dashboard back together again. Got the new switch plinth wedged in, I see the original has a metal back which the new one doesn't but guess it's ok. I've been hunting in the Rimmer catalogue for new rubber rings for all the instruments to fit back into dashboard and can't find them listed. Any hints where I can get the full set from? All the instruments were working before removal, will I need anything else for re-fitting? Many Thanks as always Christine
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For various reasons yesterday was the first time I could take my 1970 CP for a serious run after the winter lay up. After about 2 miles the rev counter started swinging wildly from side to side and eventually stopped working with the needle at zero. But then suddenly after a further 20 miles it started working perfectly again and was still working today. Was it just lack of use or do I need to investigate further or perhaps disconnect at the dissy end and put a few drops of oil in the cable? Anybody got any idea as to what was going on? John
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Hi All My speedo drive cable snapped & the end ( I think about 2 mm ) is stuck in the housing on the speedometer. Any ideas how to extract it ? Appreciated -
On a recent trip in during a deluge I became utterly frustrated accessing my wiper switch. The has CR a rotary affair hidden behind the overdrive lever. OK I have exacerbated the problem by adjusting my steering column as close to the dash as it will go (doesn't everyone?), therefore bringing the overdrive lever very close to the wiper switch. Oh to have a rocker switch like the CP . The rotary switch is downright dangerous to fiddle around with. To overcome the problem I have fitted a Lucas Off-On-On toggle switch and a push button alongside it for the washers on a home made auxiliary switch panel just under the dash. So much better. Why-oh-why did Triumph fiddle with the the CP design - madness!
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What is the best way to both replace those annoying dashboard pull knobs in the centre consul? I had to break apart the interior light one , I have replacements for the tatty four others but dont know the best wat to remove them, as it took a lot of force for the interior light one that was removed from the car for the process. Also the replacement interior light one now doesnt want to stay on even with weak glue. Do I have to Araldite it on with the same problems if I need to remove it in the future. Any suggestions would be greatly received.
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I'm confused, I have a "modern-classic" Smith electric temp. gauge and it shows over 100 deg C when I can measure around 75 deg C with an IR thermometer on various parts of cooling system including the sender and I'm sure the thermostat has opened. I have 9-10 V feed to the gauge. At ambient temperature the sender has about 1050 ohm resistance, I have two other senders, an old one with approx 500 ohm and another brand new one with approx 850 ohm. Which one should I use, by instinct I would say the one in the car as higher resistance should give lower reading, but ....?
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I am fitting my new Racetorations gearbox tunnel to the TR4A. It has the removable cover that goes over the right angle speedo drive. My car came without the right angle drive when I bought it and I have had 2 speedo cables break because of the sharp angle that they come out of the gearbox onto the floor of the car. I have bought a new right angle drive. I was looking at it yesterday and realised that it reverses the rotation of the cable. How is this going to affect my speedo? Did the cars with the right angle drive have a different speedo?
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The first of a few questions after tonights work in the garage. I've searched and found almost the answer I wanted, but can anyone point out where the washer hose comes into the cabin area? I've taken a pic where I think it comes out before heading towards the passenger side and out to the washer bottle. Can anyone confirm this is correct? Thanks Andrew
