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Showing results for tags 'tr4'.
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Hi all, I've had my battery out for a while and my electrical work has taken FAR too long to complete. Can someone please translate the switch positions (1-4) in the attached AAW wiring diagram to the actual key positions in the switch? My switch has the off position at 12 o'clock, an 11 o'clock position, a 1 o'clock position and the 2-ish momentary position for starting. I am managing to confuse myself with the switch wiring! Thanks. tr4 wiring diagram.pdf
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Hi all, I can't find any of the ball studs that the rear seat clips onto as they seem to be unavailable . I am going to make some from a bolt and round the head off. Has anybody done this before ? any ideas would be appreciated. Regards Ron
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Hello All, A couple of specific questions about the available Hi Torque starter motors that I've not seen answered already, please... I am looking to purchase a Hi Torque starter motor pending sorting out the rebuild of my original starter motor. All of the suitable Hi Torque starter motors seem to come with a built in threaded stud (fixed in bolt) that is no doubt meant to assist getting the motor mounted onto the car. My car had a "long nose" M418G, L3, possibly part number 25521B (it's very hard to read), a "bolt on" ring gear, and a 10 tooth pinion. I would prefer to buy one without this stud (i.e. just with two holes, like the original starters) - does one exist please? Failing that, is there one where the built in threaded stud is at least on the bottom - as as far I can see if it's on the top it must make it even harder to fit due to the minimal access to the immediate other side of the bell-housing unless you have an access hole in the gearbox tunnel. Many thanks Tony
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Hi all, I am missing the bracing for the front over riders and I have not been able to track any down. I have ordered some appropriate tube and intend to make some, does anybody have a photo of an original so I can attempt to follow the bends needed ? I also assume that they attach to the inner wing to the slotted hole. Any help would be appreciated. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I have searched the forum and not found the answer to my issue. Whilst investigating a slight leak around my spin on oil filter I decided to check the relief valve operation. It has been fine for many years but now the pressure just keeps rising with revs and does not find the relief spot. When I back the valve screw off the pressure does drop but still does not find its maximum to relieve. Any thoughts before I disassemble the whole lot? Some have suggested replacing spring and ball anyway in case of wear. Many thanks Mark
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Hi all, I have rebuilt the engine on my TR4, new liners and rings,new head gasket, head has had new valves and seats and have been lapped, all the valve gaps are correct and are moving up and down but I am getting air blowing out of the carbs ! I'm a bit stumped and would appreciate any advice. they are the original valve spring but they seem ok. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I have searched the forum and not found the answer to my issue. Whilst investigating a slight leak around my spin on oil filter I decided to check the relief valve operation. It has been fine for many years but now the pressure just keeps rising with revs and does not find the relief spot. When I back the valve screw off the pressure does drop but still does not find its maximum to relieve. Any thoughts before I disassemble the whole lot? I also see conflicting advice on setting the relief valve - is it a cold or hot engine? Many thanks Mark
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Hi All, I have tried to fit the rubber boot seal but it seems too big and the lid is sitting too proud from the body, is there a smaller seal ? Regards Ron
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Hi All, A little while ago, the suggestion was made that it might be entertaining if I reposted the story of when my amazing partner Jan and I competed in the stupidly long Alcan 5000 rally (Seattle to Anchorage) with our stupidly old 1961 TR4. Well, it's been almost 10 years since we went on that road trip (August 2014) so perhaps it's appropriate. At the time we posted our daily "blog" on Facebook which we later compiled into an article that appeared in a number of magazines including our very own TRAction. I've decided that, following some "establishing" posts, I shall post them here as separate posts. They won't appear every day like in the original - I'm afraid that my busy job won't allow that - but I will try to add them regularly and in sequence so that you get a feel for the experience. And anyway, posting the whole thing at once wouldn't leave any room for suspense, would it? I won't say too much about our respective approach to the reporting but I think you'll get a good feel for our character differences as it goes along. Many of you, of course, will have read this all before but I'm hoping that it is interesting enough to bear repeating almost 10 years later. For some it may the first time you've seen this. Either way, I hope you'll indulge me. I'll add pictures too, of course. Almost 5,000 miles to the Serious North in only 9 days in a 1961 TR4? Sure. Great idea... Stay tuned for the full story. Tim
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Hi all, I am thinking of fitting a triumph 2000 O/D gearbox to my TR4, has anybody got a photo/drawing of the bracket needed to adapt the rear mounting? Regards Ron
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Hi all, My HS6 carbs have developed an annoying ad-hoc problem and I thought I would ask for some guidance. Every now and then the rear carb float chamber overflows with petrol from the overflow valve when - mainly when the engine is switched off but sometimes when running. It suggests to me that the float valve is not closing correctly, but why not overflow all the time. I have checked the float integrity, looked for chamber debris, added washers under the valve seat to activate it earlier, and changed needle valves. What next? Cheers Mark
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Hello guys and gales, I'm after a pair of good quality (as Timken, if not NOS) GHB166 rigid axle rear hub bearings : who knows the Timken references or exact bearing dimensions ? Thanks,
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Hi All, I realise that there has been lots of discussion about fuel vaporisation and ethanol before and I have taken steps such as having HS6 carb shields, using E5 petrol, and opening the bonnet when hot. However, I still need to crank the engine a few times after parking my TR4 before it will start - and as is often is the case it is fine when cold. Some other symptoms are causing me to question if my issues are actually related to heat sink etc or if there is something else to consider: 1. The inline filter just before the carbs is always empty and I can see petrol spurting in when the engine is running. Even if I undo the pipe connections and prime the line and filter to full, it quickly reverts back to empty/almost empty after parking when hot. It does not affect the running of the car but it seems odd to me. 2. I have a few drips of petrol under the rear SU carb after a run and the car cooling down again. It shows no leaks on start up or when running. I cannot tell if it is from the carb reservoir or the needle jet, but suspect reservoir. Maybe it is all down to vaporisation and the build up of vapour pressure, but perhaps there may be something wrong with pump return valves or needle valves? I have checked the needle valve and float seetings and there is petrol in the reservoirs, even after parking hot. Grateful for you comments. Mark
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Ok one for the electrical gurus......... To set the scene (apologies for length of this)..... I have a tr4 converted to negative earth with a lightweight Revington 40amp alternator fitted. I have a battery cut off switch wired into the ignition circuit. I also have the revington auxiliary wiring loom which gets its power from the battery side of the cut off switch and is switched via the ignition and a relay) Amongst other bits and bobs (interior lights, windscreen washers, radio,map light all low amp stuff) , that loom powers an electric revotec fan which is wired via a relay (there is also an override switch for this wired using a switching relay). I have also fitted relays for the dip and main beams and there are spot lamps and fog lamps. These are wired via relays to come on when the relay is powered by the dip (fog) or main beam (spot) with override switches on the dash which effectively make an earth to latch the relay when in the on position. The power for the lights etc comes from wires connected to the starter solenoid via a further auxiliary fuse box. The issue is that the ammeter shows a positive charge when the lights are on and more positive charge when the fog or spots are on (say 15 to 20 amps). Is thus a result of the source of the lights' power (ie the starter solenoid) or something else? Checked alternator with multimeter- runs about 12.8 volts tick over and gets up to 14 and a bit when revved so doesnt seem to be over charging. The needle on the ammeter rises with engine revs- it seems to be measuring load rather than battery charging. Alternator is three terminal type- big post for current and one to ignition and one to warning light. Light behaving normally -ie on when ignition turned on but off when running. Charged up battery fully to check wasn't in need of amps and still did same thing. No problem starting Any thoughts? Bob
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Hi All, I am trying to track down a knocking noise that is mostly evident when the rev are low and reducing (on over run(?)). Using my stethoscope, it sounds like the knocking is coming from the back of the engine block closer to the crankshaft then the cylinder head. I checked all the obvious stuff and now am onto the big end bearings. I have pulled the piston 4 big end bearing just to have a look and it doesn’t appear that bad. There also doesn’t appear to be any issues with the crankshaft, so I highly doubt this is what’s causing the knocking sound. my question is, from the picture, would you advice while I’m here to go ahead and change all the big end bearings or just put this one back in and revisit in 10,000 miles? Thank you, Adam
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Hi All, A problem I’ve been trying to diagnose for a while. Weirdly, plug number two is showing all the signs of overheating - the electrodes appear white, with no brown or black colouration. I have checked the ignition - swapped over the coil, new plugs, I have run it on points and with Luminition optotronic ignition and the advance seems to be a few degrees BTDC. I have done a compression test and all cylinders are showing 150 psi after a few turns of the engine. And the valve clearances look good at 10 thou. I doubt it’s a fuelling issue as plug number one is running rich, and this points to ignition, however I’m struggling to think what’s left to check. However, it could be that the problem is actually with cylinder 1, and the fouling of the plug is coming from something other then the two much fuel, and running lean on plug 2 would cause overheating. Is it now worth taking the cylinder head off and checking the state of the valves and to see if the waterways around cylinder two are clogged? At the next opportunity, I might check to make sure the valve lift is consistent. Weirdly, I have noticed a potential new knocking noise coming from the engine, but this might be me tuning into random noises, as the sound softens once the engine is warm. I worry, I am just looking for issues now. Thanks in advance, Adam
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Hello After a run I have noticed the gearbox making very odd noises in 1st, 2nd & 3rd. 4th seems fine, clutch, selection & overdrive also ok. Layshaft bearings failing? The box was partially rebuilt 30 years ago to include an overdrive, think the layshaft was changed then - probably a swap from another unit rather than new. Not too sure about this, but at the time the overall condition of the box was considered ok. Don't think it's out of oil. Thanks, Adrian
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Hi all, I found this clip of the speke factory, and you can see TR 4s on the line https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxUDbcyjE62pkG6nJX7Jn4T46YXOYE0f6A Regards Ron
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HI All, looking for some advice. I've noticed that the core plug at the back of the cylinder head on my TR4 is weeping slightly and I need to change it. Looking at the usual suspects sites I can see that there are two types of 1 5/8" core plug, a cupped and a dished version. Dished currently in place. Is there any recommendations as to which is the best to use, or does it depend on the head and if there is a shoulder or not in the hole. Also I used a locktight formula to seal the plugs in place, many years ago, is there anything currently recommended to use to seal the core plug? I'm also assuming I can replace it with the head still in place by removing the battery, is this practical? Mark
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I have fibre glass copy of rear screen and I need glass for it. I have read that the standard glass does not fit them vey well, so I was going to make one out of perspex type plastic, has anyone done this. I know revington does supply them but they are over £300. Thanks Brian
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I'm trying to get to the point where I can sustain a running engine long enough to get hot enough to go through the Carb Balancing and the Mixture fine tuning. I just cannot get it running other than on the Choke (at about 1500 RPM), but then any attempt to push the choke in results in an initial rise in RPM followed by a progressive loss of revs and final stall. My HS6 carbs have the 0.1" jet and SM needle and Red spring. I closely followed the generally recommended set-up with the jets 2 Turns (12 Flats) down from the bridge level and with 1.5 Turns on the idle screw. The distributor is statically timed at I judge to be between 6 and 4 deg BTDC. I also followed the instructions regarding setting the fast idle cam screw (and so far this has been the only adjustment that has had any marked effect on the running - more of that later) According to everything I have read, this set-up ought to get it going sufficient to fine tune everything - the problem is in my case it won’t! Initially I found that the engine fired instantly on full choke - but to a very high RPM in the order of 3000 RPM! I then did several systematic (and recorded) changes to try to get the choke-out speed down and allow the choke to be pushed in without the rise in revs followed by the decrease to stall. To cut a very long story short (or just shorter) weakening the mixture (from the starting point of 12 flats) by up to 4 flats and/or similarly winding the idle screw from 1.5 to 1 Turns had virtually no effect. The only thing that got the revs down (to about 1500) was by taking 1T out of the cam screw. In effect this meant that even with the choke fully “out” and cam at its maximum, the screw was barely touching the cam and consequently having little or no effect on the throttle position. This frankly seems all wrong to me, but it’s what I’ve found so far! PS I should mention that the plugs are incredibly sooty. I can’t really say I expect someone will have an easy explanation and cure for what I have described, but can I just ask……. Does it make any sense that pushing in the choke will result in a strong rise in revs (which then dies)? I suspect that if I could just get an explanation for that, then I might just start to make some progress fathoming out the rest. Or more pragmatically, can anyone recommend an SU specialist mechanic in my area, Harpenden/St Albans? Thanks in anticipation Norman
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Hi all, I want to refurbish the A frame support bracket but cannot find the "crackle" finish paint, anyone know what it is called and where I can get it ? Regards Ron
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Hello, Looks like I got a significant oil leak in the area close to the spark plugs (engine tr4a). After cleaning, adding some white powder it is clear that the oil comes from the pushrod tubes. From all of them, but looks like a bit more on cylinder 4. Complete engine restoration was done 15 years ago and car has run less then 15 thousand miles since then. I guess it is about time to show some deterioration. Looks like the remedy being head removal and proper reassembly of the tubes in a new gasket (drawing attached). I have a 694-510 head gasket from Mossmotors US and there is a note for new tubes: "swag ends in head and seal with blue locktite" which is not quite clear to me. Also , the same 694-510 head gasket is for 83, 86 and 87 mm cylinders (?). Moss Europe has different gaskets for different cylinders dimensions. I also read somewhere in this forum a palliative solution of using locktite externally without removing the head. Any tip or recommendation? Any help will be appreciated. Regards, Reinaldo Morilha TR4A 1966 TR3A 1959
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Has anyone ever fitted a Go Pro camera to their car to look back at the driver and/or facing forward? My 4a is to be used by my son at his wedding for his transport from the church to the reception and he wants to capture the ride so I would like to know the best position for the camera and type of mount. Many thanks Andy C
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Hi all, I have just installed the wiper motor on a right hand TR4, when it parks it is upright rather than at the bottom of the screen. Is this a left hand wiper or is something else amiss ? Regards Ron
