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Showing results for tags 'tr4'.
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Hi All, I am fitting rear seat trim, does the ally trim fasten over the sewn edge of the rear seat back and side flaps or does it follow the welted line that is about 12mm inside the edge ? Regards Ron
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Hi all, I've had my battery out for a while and my electrical work has taken FAR too long to complete. Can someone please translate the switch positions (1-4) in the attached AAW wiring diagram to the actual key positions in the switch? My switch has the off position at 12 o'clock, an 11 o'clock position, a 1 o'clock position and the 2-ish momentary position for starting. I am managing to confuse myself with the switch wiring! Thanks. tr4 wiring diagram.pdf
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Hi all, I can't find any of the ball studs that the rear seat clips onto as they seem to be unavailable . I am going to make some from a bolt and round the head off. Has anybody done this before ? any ideas would be appreciated. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I am missing the bracing for the front over riders and I have not been able to track any down. I have ordered some appropriate tube and intend to make some, does anybody have a photo of an original so I can attempt to follow the bends needed ? I also assume that they attach to the inner wing to the slotted hole. Any help would be appreciated. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I have rebuilt the engine on my TR4, new liners and rings,new head gasket, head has had new valves and seats and have been lapped, all the valve gaps are correct and are moving up and down but I am getting air blowing out of the carbs ! I'm a bit stumped and would appreciate any advice. they are the original valve spring but they seem ok. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I have searched the forum and not found the answer to my issue. Whilst investigating a slight leak around my spin on oil filter I decided to check the relief valve operation. It has been fine for many years but now the pressure just keeps rising with revs and does not find the relief spot. When I back the valve screw off the pressure does drop but still does not find its maximum to relieve. Any thoughts before I disassemble the whole lot? Some have suggested replacing spring and ball anyway in case of wear. Many thanks Mark
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Hi all, I have searched the forum and not found the answer to my issue. Whilst investigating a slight leak around my spin on oil filter I decided to check the relief valve operation. It has been fine for many years but now the pressure just keeps rising with revs and does not find the relief spot. When I back the valve screw off the pressure does drop but still does not find its maximum to relieve. Any thoughts before I disassemble the whole lot? I also see conflicting advice on setting the relief valve - is it a cold or hot engine? Many thanks Mark
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Hi All, I have tried to fit the rubber boot seal but it seems too big and the lid is sitting too proud from the body, is there a smaller seal ? Regards Ron
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Hi All, A little while ago, the suggestion was made that it might be entertaining if I reposted the story of when my amazing partner Jan and I competed in the stupidly long Alcan 5000 rally (Seattle to Anchorage) with our stupidly old 1961 TR4. Well, it's been almost 10 years since we went on that road trip (August 2014) so perhaps it's appropriate. At the time we posted our daily "blog" on Facebook which we later compiled into an article that appeared in a number of magazines including our very own TRAction. I've decided that, following some "establishing" posts, I shall post them here as separate posts. They won't appear every day like in the original - I'm afraid that my busy job won't allow that - but I will try to add them regularly and in sequence so that you get a feel for the experience. And anyway, posting the whole thing at once wouldn't leave any room for suspense, would it? I won't say too much about our respective approach to the reporting but I think you'll get a good feel for our character differences as it goes along. Many of you, of course, will have read this all before but I'm hoping that it is interesting enough to bear repeating almost 10 years later. For some it may the first time you've seen this. Either way, I hope you'll indulge me. I'll add pictures too, of course. Almost 5,000 miles to the Serious North in only 9 days in a 1961 TR4? Sure. Great idea... Stay tuned for the full story. Tim
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Hi all, I am thinking of fitting a triumph 2000 O/D gearbox to my TR4, has anybody got a photo/drawing of the bracket needed to adapt the rear mounting? Regards Ron
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Hi all, My HS6 carbs have developed an annoying ad-hoc problem and I thought I would ask for some guidance. Every now and then the rear carb float chamber overflows with petrol from the overflow valve when - mainly when the engine is switched off but sometimes when running. It suggests to me that the float valve is not closing correctly, but why not overflow all the time. I have checked the float integrity, looked for chamber debris, added washers under the valve seat to activate it earlier, and changed needle valves. What next? Cheers Mark
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Hello guys and gales, I'm after a pair of good quality (as Timken, if not NOS) GHB166 rigid axle rear hub bearings : who knows the Timken references or exact bearing dimensions ? Thanks,
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Hi All, I am trying to track down a knocking noise that is mostly evident when the rev are low and reducing (on over run(?)). Using my stethoscope, it sounds like the knocking is coming from the back of the engine block closer to the crankshaft then the cylinder head. I checked all the obvious stuff and now am onto the big end bearings. I have pulled the piston 4 big end bearing just to have a look and it doesn’t appear that bad. There also doesn’t appear to be any issues with the crankshaft, so I highly doubt this is what’s causing the knocking sound. my question is, from the picture, would you advice while I’m here to go ahead and change all the big end bearings or just put this one back in and revisit in 10,000 miles? Thank you, Adam
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Hi All, A problem I’ve been trying to diagnose for a while. Weirdly, plug number two is showing all the signs of overheating - the electrodes appear white, with no brown or black colouration. I have checked the ignition - swapped over the coil, new plugs, I have run it on points and with Luminition optotronic ignition and the advance seems to be a few degrees BTDC. I have done a compression test and all cylinders are showing 150 psi after a few turns of the engine. And the valve clearances look good at 10 thou. I doubt it’s a fuelling issue as plug number one is running rich, and this points to ignition, however I’m struggling to think what’s left to check. However, it could be that the problem is actually with cylinder 1, and the fouling of the plug is coming from something other then the two much fuel, and running lean on plug 2 would cause overheating. Is it now worth taking the cylinder head off and checking the state of the valves and to see if the waterways around cylinder two are clogged? At the next opportunity, I might check to make sure the valve lift is consistent. Weirdly, I have noticed a potential new knocking noise coming from the engine, but this might be me tuning into random noises, as the sound softens once the engine is warm. I worry, I am just looking for issues now. Thanks in advance, Adam
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Hello After a run I have noticed the gearbox making very odd noises in 1st, 2nd & 3rd. 4th seems fine, clutch, selection & overdrive also ok. Layshaft bearings failing? The box was partially rebuilt 30 years ago to include an overdrive, think the layshaft was changed then - probably a swap from another unit rather than new. Not too sure about this, but at the time the overall condition of the box was considered ok. Don't think it's out of oil. Thanks, Adrian
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Hi All, I realise that there has been lots of discussion about fuel vaporisation and ethanol before and I have taken steps such as having HS6 carb shields, using E5 petrol, and opening the bonnet when hot. However, I still need to crank the engine a few times after parking my TR4 before it will start - and as is often is the case it is fine when cold. Some other symptoms are causing me to question if my issues are actually related to heat sink etc or if there is something else to consider: 1. The inline filter just before the carbs is always empty and I can see petrol spurting in when the engine is running. Even if I undo the pipe connections and prime the line and filter to full, it quickly reverts back to empty/almost empty after parking when hot. It does not affect the running of the car but it seems odd to me. 2. I have a few drips of petrol under the rear SU carb after a run and the car cooling down again. It shows no leaks on start up or when running. I cannot tell if it is from the carb reservoir or the needle jet, but suspect reservoir. Maybe it is all down to vaporisation and the build up of vapour pressure, but perhaps there may be something wrong with pump return valves or needle valves? I have checked the needle valve and float seetings and there is petrol in the reservoirs, even after parking hot. Grateful for you comments. Mark
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Hi all, I found this clip of the speke factory, and you can see TR 4s on the line https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxUDbcyjE62pkG6nJX7Jn4T46YXOYE0f6A Regards Ron
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I have fibre glass copy of rear screen and I need glass for it. I have read that the standard glass does not fit them vey well, so I was going to make one out of perspex type plastic, has anyone done this. I know revington does supply them but they are over £300. Thanks Brian
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Hi all, I want to refurbish the A frame support bracket but cannot find the "crackle" finish paint, anyone know what it is called and where I can get it ? Regards Ron
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Hi all, I have just installed the wiper motor on a right hand TR4, when it parks it is upright rather than at the bottom of the screen. Is this a left hand wiper or is something else amiss ? Regards Ron
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What is the new TR4 engine displacement (stock was: 86.00 x 92.00 mm - 130.5 cu-in / 2138 cm3) after I had the .87 piston/liner set installed? Couldn't find it posted anywhere. Thanks! -
Hi all , can anyone tell me what are the sizes of the reducer between the heater spigot on the TR4 head and the heater valve or the part number, I can only see the long one in the catalogues. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I am replacing all the seals on my TR4 overdrive, there doesn't appear to be a seal for the brake ring, is this just a liquid sealant ? Regards Ron
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Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a stainless blanking plug. Had to buy 5 so have a couple spare if any one is stuck. The Moss mild steel one is £6.00 I paid half that. Found a lot of white corrosion on the aluminium parts. Car radiator cooling system runs blue antifreeze. 50/50 mix with rain water. Brushed clean and refitted.
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Hi All, Whilst putting in some instrument LEDs, I noticed that the seals between the glass and bezel on my speedo and rev counter are now black dust. I think I can get a 4mm rope seal through AES (or complete assemblies from bidding sites) but I wonder: Should I just ignore this and refit the gauges back into the dash as is? Is it possible to peen back the tabs on the chrome bezel (to get the glass out)and bend back later, or will they just snap? I see one can buy new 5" bezels if needed are curved nose pliers the way to go? Can anyone recommend a seal supplier to use? Thank you in anticipation Mark
