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Showing results for tags 'tr4'.
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Hi all, I found this clip of the speke factory, and you can see TR 4s on the line https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxUDbcyjE62pkG6nJX7Jn4T46YXOYE0f6A Regards Ron
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HI All, looking for some advice. I've noticed that the core plug at the back of the cylinder head on my TR4 is weeping slightly and I need to change it. Looking at the usual suspects sites I can see that there are two types of 1 5/8" core plug, a cupped and a dished version. Dished currently in place. Is there any recommendations as to which is the best to use, or does it depend on the head and if there is a shoulder or not in the hole. Also I used a locktight formula to seal the plugs in place, many years ago, is there anything currently recommended to use to seal the core plug? I'm also assuming I can replace it with the head still in place by removing the battery, is this practical? Mark
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I have fibre glass copy of rear screen and I need glass for it. I have read that the standard glass does not fit them vey well, so I was going to make one out of perspex type plastic, has anyone done this. I know revington does supply them but they are over £300. Thanks Brian
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I'm trying to get to the point where I can sustain a running engine long enough to get hot enough to go through the Carb Balancing and the Mixture fine tuning. I just cannot get it running other than on the Choke (at about 1500 RPM), but then any attempt to push the choke in results in an initial rise in RPM followed by a progressive loss of revs and final stall. My HS6 carbs have the 0.1" jet and SM needle and Red spring. I closely followed the generally recommended set-up with the jets 2 Turns (12 Flats) down from the bridge level and with 1.5 Turns on the idle screw. The distributor is statically timed at I judge to be between 6 and 4 deg BTDC. I also followed the instructions regarding setting the fast idle cam screw (and so far this has been the only adjustment that has had any marked effect on the running - more of that later) According to everything I have read, this set-up ought to get it going sufficient to fine tune everything - the problem is in my case it won’t! Initially I found that the engine fired instantly on full choke - but to a very high RPM in the order of 3000 RPM! I then did several systematic (and recorded) changes to try to get the choke-out speed down and allow the choke to be pushed in without the rise in revs followed by the decrease to stall. To cut a very long story short (or just shorter) weakening the mixture (from the starting point of 12 flats) by up to 4 flats and/or similarly winding the idle screw from 1.5 to 1 Turns had virtually no effect. The only thing that got the revs down (to about 1500) was by taking 1T out of the cam screw. In effect this meant that even with the choke fully “out” and cam at its maximum, the screw was barely touching the cam and consequently having little or no effect on the throttle position. This frankly seems all wrong to me, but it’s what I’ve found so far! PS I should mention that the plugs are incredibly sooty. I can’t really say I expect someone will have an easy explanation and cure for what I have described, but can I just ask……. Does it make any sense that pushing in the choke will result in a strong rise in revs (which then dies)? I suspect that if I could just get an explanation for that, then I might just start to make some progress fathoming out the rest. Or more pragmatically, can anyone recommend an SU specialist mechanic in my area, Harpenden/St Albans? Thanks in anticipation Norman
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Hi all, I want to refurbish the A frame support bracket but cannot find the "crackle" finish paint, anyone know what it is called and where I can get it ? Regards Ron
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Hello, Looks like I got a significant oil leak in the area close to the spark plugs (engine tr4a). After cleaning, adding some white powder it is clear that the oil comes from the pushrod tubes. From all of them, but looks like a bit more on cylinder 4. Complete engine restoration was done 15 years ago and car has run less then 15 thousand miles since then. I guess it is about time to show some deterioration. Looks like the remedy being head removal and proper reassembly of the tubes in a new gasket (drawing attached). I have a 694-510 head gasket from Mossmotors US and there is a note for new tubes: "swag ends in head and seal with blue locktite" which is not quite clear to me. Also , the same 694-510 head gasket is for 83, 86 and 87 mm cylinders (?). Moss Europe has different gaskets for different cylinders dimensions. I also read somewhere in this forum a palliative solution of using locktite externally without removing the head. Any tip or recommendation? Any help will be appreciated. Regards, Reinaldo Morilha TR4A 1966 TR3A 1959
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Has anyone ever fitted a Go Pro camera to their car to look back at the driver and/or facing forward? My 4a is to be used by my son at his wedding for his transport from the church to the reception and he wants to capture the ride so I would like to know the best position for the camera and type of mount. Many thanks Andy C
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Hi all, I have just installed the wiper motor on a right hand TR4, when it parks it is upright rather than at the bottom of the screen. Is this a left hand wiper or is something else amiss ? Regards Ron
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What is the new TR4 engine displacement (stock was: 86.00 x 92.00 mm - 130.5 cu-in / 2138 cm3) after I had the .87 piston/liner set installed? Couldn't find it posted anywhere. Thanks! -
Hi All, I have got to constantly adjust the choke cable outer sleeve as it always slips through the cable retaining clamp (aue55 in the rimmer book), has anyone got a solution to this problem ? Regards Ron
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Hi all , can anyone tell me what are the sizes of the reducer between the heater spigot on the TR4 head and the heater valve or the part number, I can only see the long one in the catalogues. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I am replacing all the seals on my TR4 overdrive, there doesn't appear to be a seal for the brake ring, is this just a liquid sealant ? Regards Ron
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Has anybody fitted a clock to a TR4 and if so whats the best way to connect it all up. I recently purchased a rectangular Jaeger clock that will fit into the ash tray aperture with a little bit of fiddling. As I don't smoke it seems a good place to fit a clock which will be a lot more useful than the ashtray. It also allows a back light to be fitted. So linking up the light to the other instrument lights is no problem but I'm not sure of the best way to connect the clock; via a direct wire to the battery with an inline fuse or via the fuse box. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a stainless blanking plug. Had to buy 5 so have a couple spare if any one is stuck. The Moss mild steel one is £6.00 I paid half that. Found a lot of white corrosion on the aluminium parts. Car radiator cooling system runs blue antifreeze. 50/50 mix with rain water. Brushed clean and refitted.
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Heres a couple of photos of progress on the Olympic Car. Its called the Olympic Car as it will be ready for the Olympics. Which one was never discussed! Anyway, its at the back of the queue behind ongoing race car rebuilds, maintenance and developments, which is what was supposed to happen. I hope you enjoy looking at these underbonnet pics of the car, I think the standard of work (not mine) is stunning! The rest of the car is just as good. Im hoping it will be ready to be trimmed in the near future. Once completed, it will be used for a while to make sure all is okay. Fundamentally, its a brand new car. I suspect it will be sold early next year although no decisions have been made. Perhaps it will be just too good to let it go. David
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Hi All, Whilst putting in some instrument LEDs, I noticed that the seals between the glass and bezel on my speedo and rev counter are now black dust. I think I can get a 4mm rope seal through AES (or complete assemblies from bidding sites) but I wonder: Should I just ignore this and refit the gauges back into the dash as is? Is it possible to peen back the tabs on the chrome bezel (to get the glass out)and bend back later, or will they just snap? I see one can buy new 5" bezels if needed are curved nose pliers the way to go? Can anyone recommend a seal supplier to use? Thank you in anticipation Mark
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A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
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This car looks like a nice resto project for somebody..I am in no way connected to this car/sale. https://angliacarauctions.co.uk/classic/sat-6th-sun-7th-november/?q=Tr4
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It’s great to see that Revival Motorsport Fabrications are remanufacturing the Surrey Backlight Frames for TR’s. It looks like a quality product too - (Photos taken from their Instagram page. I have no connection to this company). Ade
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Hi all, the original headlights have corroded inside so I need to change them, my first thoughts are to buy similar but upgrade the bulb but what about sealed beam ? I also have a new loom but the bulb holders for the ignition light and the flasher light on the dash wont fit into the red and green lenses, do I hack off the new bulb holder and replace with the old ones or is there a better solution ? Thoughts please. Cheers Ron
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Hi all, I am rebuilding an early TR4 with the early front suspension setup, when I bought the "project" it did not have the front brake calipers, no problem I thought I have a spare pair of 16Ps . Having refurbished them I attempted to install them today they don't fit ! the dimension from the bolt holes to where they sit above the disc edge is too small ! I assume that the mounting setup is for an earlier B type caliper does this have a bigger dimension ? Frustrating but a good excuse for a calming beer Regards Ron
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Hi all, I was tootling along yesterday, top down, cap on (bald head), enjoying the sunshine when I heard an ominous rumble. A few months ago the bolts on the propshaft had come loose and it sounded very similar to that. I put it up on the stands and checked but the bolts were tight. I then put the car in gear and turned the rear wheel and heard a slight noise from the gearbox, it was the same noise throughout all the gears so I assume it is wear on the main shaft ? The car drives well apart from this noise any ideas ? Regards Ron
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Hi all, where can I get the o-ring for the P16 caliper on a TR4 ? all the rebuild kits don't seem to supply them. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I was replacing the oil seal on the diff and noticed a slight wear in the front bearing, is this difficult to replace ? will I have to take out the diff assembly ? or just live with the possibility of a slight oil leak at a later stage ? my mileage is very low. The tub is off so access is easy. Regards Ron
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I had a leak of diff oil onto my brake shoes. Replaced axle tube oil seal (GHS185) but still the same, but I did notice bad scoring on the axle shaft, so looking at previous blog history I have ordered SKF 99131 speedi sleeve. For those not in the know these can repair bad shafts which cost £250 min, so is a bonus, hopefully. So my question is , what is the best sealant to put on the shaft before installing the sleeve, I have Blue Hylomar, Any good ? RobG
