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Showing results for tags 'tr4'.
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Hi all, I have just installed the wiper motor on a right hand TR4, when it parks it is upright rather than at the bottom of the screen. Is this a left hand wiper or is something else amiss ? Regards Ron
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What is the new TR4 engine displacement (stock was: 86.00 x 92.00 mm - 130.5 cu-in / 2138 cm3) after I had the .87 piston/liner set installed? Couldn't find it posted anywhere. Thanks! -
Hi All, I have got to constantly adjust the choke cable outer sleeve as it always slips through the cable retaining clamp (aue55 in the rimmer book), has anyone got a solution to this problem ? Regards Ron
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Hi all , can anyone tell me what are the sizes of the reducer between the heater spigot on the TR4 head and the heater valve or the part number, I can only see the long one in the catalogues. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I am replacing all the seals on my TR4 overdrive, there doesn't appear to be a seal for the brake ring, is this just a liquid sealant ? Regards Ron
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Has anybody fitted a clock to a TR4 and if so whats the best way to connect it all up. I recently purchased a rectangular Jaeger clock that will fit into the ash tray aperture with a little bit of fiddling. As I don't smoke it seems a good place to fit a clock which will be a lot more useful than the ashtray. It also allows a back light to be fitted. So linking up the light to the other instrument lights is no problem but I'm not sure of the best way to connect the clock; via a direct wire to the battery with an inline fuse or via the fuse box. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a stainless blanking plug. Had to buy 5 so have a couple spare if any one is stuck. The Moss mild steel one is £6.00 I paid half that. Found a lot of white corrosion on the aluminium parts. Car radiator cooling system runs blue antifreeze. 50/50 mix with rain water. Brushed clean and refitted.
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Heres a couple of photos of progress on the Olympic Car. Its called the Olympic Car as it will be ready for the Olympics. Which one was never discussed! Anyway, its at the back of the queue behind ongoing race car rebuilds, maintenance and developments, which is what was supposed to happen. I hope you enjoy looking at these underbonnet pics of the car, I think the standard of work (not mine) is stunning! The rest of the car is just as good. Im hoping it will be ready to be trimmed in the near future. Once completed, it will be used for a while to make sure all is okay. Fundamentally, its a brand new car. I suspect it will be sold early next year although no decisions have been made. Perhaps it will be just too good to let it go. David
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Hi All, Whilst putting in some instrument LEDs, I noticed that the seals between the glass and bezel on my speedo and rev counter are now black dust. I think I can get a 4mm rope seal through AES (or complete assemblies from bidding sites) but I wonder: Should I just ignore this and refit the gauges back into the dash as is? Is it possible to peen back the tabs on the chrome bezel (to get the glass out)and bend back later, or will they just snap? I see one can buy new 5" bezels if needed are curved nose pliers the way to go? Can anyone recommend a seal supplier to use? Thank you in anticipation Mark
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A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
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This car looks like a nice resto project for somebody..I am in no way connected to this car/sale. https://angliacarauctions.co.uk/classic/sat-6th-sun-7th-november/?q=Tr4
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It’s great to see that Revival Motorsport Fabrications are remanufacturing the Surrey Backlight Frames for TR’s. It looks like a quality product too - (Photos taken from their Instagram page. I have no connection to this company). Ade
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Hi all, the original headlights have corroded inside so I need to change them, my first thoughts are to buy similar but upgrade the bulb but what about sealed beam ? I also have a new loom but the bulb holders for the ignition light and the flasher light on the dash wont fit into the red and green lenses, do I hack off the new bulb holder and replace with the old ones or is there a better solution ? Thoughts please. Cheers Ron
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Hi all, I am rebuilding an early TR4 with the early front suspension setup, when I bought the "project" it did not have the front brake calipers, no problem I thought I have a spare pair of 16Ps . Having refurbished them I attempted to install them today they don't fit ! the dimension from the bolt holes to where they sit above the disc edge is too small ! I assume that the mounting setup is for an earlier B type caliper does this have a bigger dimension ? Frustrating but a good excuse for a calming beer Regards Ron
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Hi all, I was tootling along yesterday, top down, cap on (bald head), enjoying the sunshine when I heard an ominous rumble. A few months ago the bolts on the propshaft had come loose and it sounded very similar to that. I put it up on the stands and checked but the bolts were tight. I then put the car in gear and turned the rear wheel and heard a slight noise from the gearbox, it was the same noise throughout all the gears so I assume it is wear on the main shaft ? The car drives well apart from this noise any ideas ? Regards Ron
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Hi all, where can I get the o-ring for the P16 caliper on a TR4 ? all the rebuild kits don't seem to supply them. Regards Ron
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Hi all, I was replacing the oil seal on the diff and noticed a slight wear in the front bearing, is this difficult to replace ? will I have to take out the diff assembly ? or just live with the possibility of a slight oil leak at a later stage ? my mileage is very low. The tub is off so access is easy. Regards Ron
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I had a leak of diff oil onto my brake shoes. Replaced axle tube oil seal (GHS185) but still the same, but I did notice bad scoring on the axle shaft, so looking at previous blog history I have ordered SKF 99131 speedi sleeve. For those not in the know these can repair bad shafts which cost £250 min, so is a bonus, hopefully. So my question is , what is the best sealant to put on the shaft before installing the sleeve, I have Blue Hylomar, Any good ? RobG
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We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found an angular torque did not provide the torque recommendation. Thanks for any advice Peter W PS. Photos are for principal of how the measurement is done. Not the measurements finally observed.
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Last week I was able to purchase a (hopefully) original surrey top. How should you mount the backlight? Remove aluminum frames? Does the back cover come under the backlight? Do all rubbers have to be replaced? The rubber between the backlight and the body is not included. Where can I buy it? Thanks for the info :)!!
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to the original Royal Air Force receipe which was developed to combat poor quality and low octane fuel. This product is not unique to us, there are a few companies producing a similar product but we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product. It simply is placed into the petrol tank of any car or motor cycle and then only 95 unleaded fuel needs to be used. Lead was put into petrol in 1936 to stop the KNOCK this product was developed in 1941 for the Royal Air Force. HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? Some companies claim unbelievable mileage but you cannot claim this as cars and motor cycles differ in the amount of fuel they consume. We therefore state that our product will be good for 100,000 miles. We give a 6000 mile test period, a full refund if you are not satisfied and a £1,000,000 product liability insurance underwritten at Lloyds. ONE FINAL POINT IF YOU LEAVE YOUR CAR OR MOTOR CYCLE FOR MONTHS ON END WITHOUT USING IT THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST WILL KEEP THE FUEL FRESH AND STOP IT BECOMING STALE. MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN"
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Can anyone advise on the fitting of a brake servo to a TR4? Best position? Is there anything else to buy that's not in the 'kit', from say Rimmers or Moss?
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Hi all, on my new rebuild (mark 2, productivity is up this year ) I scrapped the old early chassis as it was full of rust and I picked up a good late tr4 chassis, I intend to use all the old running gear but I need to change the steering rack which I have obtained. I read about the different lengths and when compared side by side the later one is shorter, can I use the old pin and balls so that it is compatible with the old steering gear ? Regards Ron
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Hi all, I am thinking of doing something different with the rear seat, it would seem its only function would be as a hood frame receptacle. As mine didn't come with any trim anyway I thought I would do something practical in this area, I know it wont be authentic but I would like some ideas of what could be done, with photos if anybody has got any. Regards Ron
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If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
