TR6 Ignition Barrel Problem

[Matt1969]

Sure this has been asked many times, but searching on here seems almost impossible.

My ignition barrel is not returning amtomatically from position III to position II, i.e. the starter motor doesn't disengage without me manully reverting to position II once the engine is runnning.  More of a pain than it sounds!  I have the iginition barrel type that has a black plastic cone at the forwward end of the barrel.  Can't for the life of me see how to get it off.  Any ideas anyone?  Thanks!  Matt

[RobH]

The return spring is in the switch at the rear. You don't need to remove the barrel to change that. This video explains:

 

[Matt1969]

Thanks for this. My switch doesn't have the little screw, but has a black plastic cone at the back. Any idea how to get this cone off? 

[RobH]

I think that cone is just a shroud for the connections  -  the switch mounting screw will be underneath.

 I haven't seen one myself but posts on another forum say the cover just pulls off but you may need to move the vent hose to make room. 

[jerrytr5]

Rob is correct. Just twist and pull.

I wrecked a starter motor when I had this issue. You are right to fix it.

Jerry

[Chris Hale]

The shroud just pulls off.

Not all the switches have a mounting screw though.

If you can’t see a screw once you have slid  the shroud off and down the loom then the back of the switch will just pull away.

[nickw71]

Just did this very same job yesterday. The springs eventually let go in the electrical switch barrel. The new ones are quite pricey for what they are but they come in a little Lucas box just to make you feel they are the real deal. 

I found taking the seat out and then lying down in the footwell with a head torch is the only way to do this. Glad of the yoga classes! Also taking off the ventilator tube that runs left to right also makes the job a hell of a lot easier. Mine had a tiny retaining screw which I just replaced. 

Easy job and very worth doing. I have another issue with the steering lock which I'll put on a fresh thread. 

Nick 

[Matt1969]

Many thanks all! 

[71 V12]

On 4/6/2025 at 11:53 AM, nickw71 said:

Just did this very same job yesterday. The springs eventually let go in the electrical switch barrel. The new ones are quite pricey for what they are but they come in a little Lucas box just to make you feel they are the real deal. 

I found taking the seat out and then lying down in the footwell with a head torch is the only way to do this. Glad of the yoga classes! Also taking off the ventilator tube that runs left to right also makes the job a hell of a lot easier. Mine had a tiny retaining screw which I just replaced. 

Easy job and very worth doing. I have another issue with the steering lock which I'll put on a fresh thread. 

Nick 

Hi Nick,

Can I ask where you bought your switch from? Mine has started to play up, I have to kind of wiggle the key in the switch to get it to make contact.

Regards,

Kevin

[cvtrian]

7 hours ago, 71 V12 said:

Hi Nick,

Can I ask where you bought your switch from? Mine has started to play up, I have to kind of wiggle the key in the switch to get it to make contact.

Regards,

Kevin

Hi Kevin
I offered Nick my spare, but by the time I got round to messaging him, he had already purchased a new one. Drop me a pm if you want it
Cheers
Ian

[71 V12]

21 hours ago, cvtrian said:

Hi Kevin
I offered Nick my spare, but by the time I got round to messaging him, he had already purchased a new one. Drop me a pm if you want it
Cheers
Ian

Thank you, but by the time I saw your reply I have ordered a new one from Rimmer’s. Just hope the quality is better than the last one!

[nickw71]

Mine came from Rimmers and seems decent enough quality. It's a Lucas repro job. Just depends how long it lasts.